From the East Bench climb up on easy rock (5.0) to the first belay at an obvious pine tree to the right of the central channel. Continue on up for a few more pitches, staying just right of the main channel in the face. Set up a belay under the "U" in "CU" and lead straight through the U ( runout). Finish the climb by asending the large crack system directly above the "U" and head for the summit or do another belay if required. DESCENT: There are three rappels from fixed eye-bolts. A single 50m rope is sufficient; on the last rappel, you may either use a double-rope for the 140ft. mostly free-rappel or traverse right on a ledge and rap 72ft. on a single rope to the West Bench.
Protection
Like most Flatiron faces, this route can be lead with only nuts, hexes, and slings.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 8, 2002
This is pretty dang runout as you split the uprights. Maybe 60-70 feet without pro.
By Tim Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Sep 17, 2005
If you belay at the nice horn and crack we did, the runout through the U of the CU is closer to 80 ft. Stay well to the right towards the top, as the rock is better. I got into a crumbly spot that was not confidence inspiring, but was happy to see much nicer stone to my right. This is the line to pass large groups on the standard route.
By Luis Barandiaran From: Longmont, CO Aug 5, 2006 rating: 5.6 R
My brother and I climbed this route today. Staying on the left edge, pitches two and three were beautiful flake hauls up perfect stone. For the fourth pitch, the best place to set an anchor for the runout is on a small ledge 15 or 20 feet above the bigger ledge but still 20' feet from the "U". Danny was able to slot in a questionable nut some 8 feet above the anchor. Two little friction bulges over 40-50 feet of clean slab provided a good deal of spice, with the leader looking at a 80' tumble! Some thoughtful moves higher up after the nice crack system to join up with the standard route to finish provided great exposed, slab climbing to cap off another fantastic Flatirons outing. If you're comfortable with big 5.6 runout, this is one not to be missed!
By Dean Carpenter From: Boulder, CO Aug 21, 2007 rating: 5.6 R
Not much pro but more fun than The Standard East Face route.
Third Flatiron
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