To find the route, stay on the Bear Creek Trail past the first major rock formation (Bear Creek Spire) until the trail is only about 30ft. above the creek. The S. Dino Egg has a slabby east face with a large chimney (Hatch) and on its SW side, a steep face with large huecos on the left side. Scramble up easy 5th class terrain via an obtuse dihedral to get to a nice ledge with several large boulders, below Sneak Preview.
Overhanging for the first 1/2 of the route, then vertical. Conglomerate sandstone with little pockets and knobs makes a great finger and hand workout. About 70ft. to the chains. Stick-clipping the first bolt is definitely recommended. The moves up to the bolt are not easy and you're looking at a 15ft nasty groundfall on boulders if you blow it. It seems other people had the same idea since there's a small collection of 5ft branches at the bottom of the route.
Did this again 4/4/01. Damn is this rock sharp! Ripped my hand open on the crux move just below the second bolt. I recommend it again.... maybe next year I'll lead this sucka.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jun 3, 2007 rating: 5.11c
The first clip is a little tricky, but if you can climb this route, you can make that clip. Getting to the 2nd clip is harder... the route just saps you by the end, even though the moves are not terribly hard up there. Fun though!
All new 1/2-inch stainless-steel hardware (camo'ed) and chain-and-ring anchors as of 3/29/08 thanks to the Anchor Replacement Initiative, and the great collaboration between the Flatirons Climbing Council, Access Fund, and OSMP. I'll get up there soon with the right-size Allen wrench to unscrew the old bolts and then patch the holes.
Southern Dinosaur Egg
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