Deserted Cities of the Heart 

This is easily done in one pitch. Fun climb. Yet, the top anchor is only 1 bolt. There is an anchor to the right.

While this climb is pretty mellow, benign 5.5 for the most part, it does have some concerns. Coming off of the ledge of P2 is the crux- and the bolt is clipped only after this. Consider getting a sling up high around the tree nearby and clipping a draw to it to avoid a ledge fall if you are tentative on the 5.9 move there. The single bolt up top is OK, but is still a single bolt. Think that over. Lastly, many of the bolts on this climb were placed on uneven rock and are distanced from the rock by thick washers. This is not good for the bolts or their lifespan. They seem OK, but treat them with suspicion.

On the bright side, the climb is great when done as a single pitch. The alternative descent is to scramble the ridge northward (5.2?) and into the notch between the two summits of the Goose, then down the dihedral, which is mostly 5.2(?) with one 5.6(?) move on huge jugs close to the ground.

I free-soloed this route during 1988 [before] it had any bolts. I don't think it had been climbed previously. I believe the bolts were placed later by Richard Wright who did not know the route had already been climbed. I named the route Deserted Cities of the Heart after a song by Cream on the album Wheels of Fire.

I climbed this route in 1981 with David Brewster (with a rope and gear). I have done it since with the bolts and enjoyed the route again. I don't remember naming the route.

Pretty good route. Easily broken up into two pitches but we did it in one. Expect to feel run-out if you only brought draws (or do the route a la-Rossiter). Not sure if you could find many gear placements anyway. It's mostly slabular. Bring a double length runner to sling the tree before the crux as the clip comes after the hard move.

I belayed from the two bolt anchor down and right of the top. A medium cam or stopper could be used en-route to the anchor. Double rope rap from there or traverse off north then west.