Steep route (about -15 deg) on positive holds the whole way. Start on the huge lieback and dyno up to a L-facing flake. Move up to the killer jug, then right up the great finger crack. Now make a move out on the face to the right and finish up and left. Cool route.
Protection
TR: Climb the tree on the backside, set anchor in middle of single bolt on left and double bolts on right. The route actually goes up the center of these bolts. Trad: Aliens, TCUs, --about 3 pieces total is what you're gonna need. Trad would be runout...
An excellent route, sustained the for the duration, although there are 3 good holds - two about 12 feet off the bottom, the first is part of a big block that is supported by some obvious green glue (necessary, and the block is natural). The second is just one move away from the first. The third decent hold is up high, right where you would place your gear on lead. The problem with these holds is that the feet generally suck, except at the finger-crack/layback bit. This makes it nearly impossible to rest at all.
The gear is 2 yellow-alien size cams at the top of the finger-crack placed more or less right next to each other, just before the route moves out right onto the crux face. Don't blow the last two tricky/strenuous moves above the crux, or you're in for potential groundfall. They are easier than the crux, but not that much, and by the time you get there, you're pumped as hell from the sustained overhanging climbing below.
sorry everybody, but i broke off a hold in the crux section going for the onsight a couple months ago. The hold was on the blank section of rock when you exit the crack out right to the final crux face moves. The route still goes though, and the grade remains the same. Sorry!
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