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Fandango Variation 

5.6

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length:  Grade II
Views: 1,110 page views

Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001


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Katherine Smith stops for a rest just before the e...


Description 

Start the same as for Fandango, about 200 hundred feet up the left edge of the rock. P1:Travel right, then up the massive flake and around the roof. A 60m rope can not quite make the tree above and left after turning the roof - it's about 10 yards short. Plan accordingly. P2:The variation goes up and right slightly, up an easy face to a huge tree. Step over and onto a ledge behind the tree and a couple of nice large boulders. P3:Follow the clean face up and left with the left-facing dihedral. Where the dihedral turns left and grows larger, move out right and join back up with Fandango. P4: Head straight up, or follow the dihedral up and right to the summit traverse. From here it takes usually two pitches to reach the summit block. Take care, for the ridge traverse is exposed at times. Rappell 100 feet off of two eye bolts, or down climb via the south. Note: A 50m rope may be used for the rappell, but it's definitely not recommended. The rope didn't touch the ground until we were nearly at the end of the rope.


Protection 

Standard Rack. Protection is thin in places, and there are some exposing run outs.



Add Photo Photos of Fandango Variation
0 Far Right 2<br />1 Direct E Face 6R<br />1a Butterfly 6R<br />2 Fandango 5<br />2a Variation 6<br />3 Baker's Way 3<br />4 Way of the Ancients 7R<br />5 Zig Zag 7<br />6 ?Kamikaze 9?<br />9 Hubris 6<br />unmarked Atlanta 3

BETA PHOTO: 0 Far Right 2
1 Direct E Face 6R
1a Butterfly 6R
2...


Add Comment Comments on Fandango Variation
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By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jan 1, 2001

There is another variation that is similar, but I give it 2.5 stars, 5.6. For the second pitch, head past a small tree on the edge of a dropoff to the dihedral below. Find an easy way down to this dihedral and follow it until you see a small roof. Tackle the roof, and rejoin Fandango. This variation is fun because of the big dihedral and little roof.

By Kevin Craig
Aug 6, 2004
rating: 5.5

Yet another variation goes to the big tree ledge as the "standard" variation, then... instead of following the left facing/leaning dihedral, go a bit right and up from the big tree ledge until you can easily turn left up the face again, pass a bulge and belay (with 60m cord) at the base of the dihedral that leads up to the summit ridge (re-joining the standard route at this point). I first did this with Doug Cook several years ago, but haven't seen it described anywhere - it's since become my "standard" way of doing the route.