A tiny Flatiron just past Square Rock and before Dinosaur/Der Zerkle. This is a great introduction to climbing for the new climber/new child climber. Perhaps a total of 30 feet of climbing is not intimidating, even to a 5 year old. This was where I took my then 5 year old, and then later, my 3 1/2 year old, for their 1st true "rock climbs."
The East slab has a fun, 2 star, 4th class route, the NE face has a 5.4 route, the W rib has a 5.7 route & a 5.6 arete variation.
The SW face at least 6 lines/problems. The obvious 5.9 slab is described in R. Rossiter's terrific Boulder Climbs North. To its L is a 5.10 variation. To its R (moving R to L) are 5.8 line on a minor arete, a 5.8 in a shallow dihedral, a 5.11-? boulder problem, and a 5.10 boulder problem with a painful, small L hand 2-finger pocket.
There is a single bolt with a SMC hanger on top but also another hole with a sheath, but no bolt. It has been updated. Best to belay from above.
Getting There
Go to Boulder, get off 36 at Table Mesa (redundant?) and go west, go past 93, up the hill, bear right and follow this up to NCAR (National Center for Atmospheric Research). Park. Hike west, go onto the wooded mesa via the Robert Orr Trail, follow signs to the Mesa trail, pass a big water tank, continue west to gain the Mallory Cave Trail. Beware of poison ivy along the edges of the trail. Go past Square Rock and you are there. Perhaps 1 mile, maybe less.
The half pulled out and bent anchor bolt has been replaced with a stainless steel Fixe bolt for your climbing pleasure. This was done legally through the bolt replacement application processes with the OSMP.
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