Jeff about to pull the crux move - sorry for the r...
Description
This is a classic of Flagstaff mountain. It is the first problem you come to if approaching from The Capstan. It starts on a small two finger pocket for the right hand and a good, although painful, edge for the left. Pull up and throw to a sloping rail, then throw again above the rail to two not quite ideal pebbles. The top out isn't too bad. A great problem, it is wise to use a pad and a spotter as the crux is a little comitting.
This is an incredible problem with interesting holds. Most people start with both feet on the smaller of two blocks, but a direct start, which I couldn't do, makes the problem harder and seems to be the full line.
I did a start off the ground from the right, getting the first pocket with the left, and using a tiny pocket just right to get to the good flake on Hagan's. It seems pretty hard.
Hagan's Wall 1969 by Paul Hagan. One problem left is Dandy Lion (Dandy Line V5 according to B.H. guide) - early 80s by Dan Stone; this problem is seldom done and is not as hard as it looks once the beta is known - a real circus trick dyno. Left of this is Launching Pad, which has lost a key crystal. This problem is actually two problems left of Dandy Line (P.A. says "...still right of a kind of inset is a difficult route over an overhang...). P.B. says V4, B.H. says V4, P.A. calls it Hagan's Alcove, by Paul Hagan in 1969. IMHO - I think there is a direct line between Dandy Line and Launching Pad that has yet to be done.
I think the really positive starting left hand crimp/sidepull must have broke in the last year or so. I used to be able to send this pretty consistently, but I can barely pull onto the starting holds now. There is still something there, but it isn't nearly as good as it used to be.
The right hand flake seems to flex everytime I see someone on this problem. You should avoid this problem after the rain, lest we soon have a new harder version.
I went to Flagstaff the other day, and being a short dude and reading Benningfield's book I was lost. I believe he stated, "Start contorted..." what the hell? Do I stack a pad to reach up, the rock to the left, or am I missing something?
If you're 5'7" or taller, you should be able to start on the smaller, lower boulder at the base of the problem (the chalky rock in the pictures). I started out odd and off balance crimping on two small holds; leaned out right and got the good pocket all while keeping my right foot high on the above mentioned boulder.
I don't know why, but it took me forever to get this line, but when I did, it was kind of anticlimactic. If it was a few feet taller, it would be awesome.
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