One of the more popular bouldering areas, with a c...
Description
Flagstaff Mountain is the local bouldering area. This place has quite a history, and despite the fact that it is no Hueco Tanks, there are many historical and classic "moderate" problems. Flagstaff Mountain is a unique area in that the bouldering does not involve pushing yourself on the latest V9, but attempting moderate and historical problems that are sometimes a little scary and sandbagged. There are few beginner problems, and not a whole lot of world class problems, but tons to pander to the intermediate climber. There is quite a lot of climbing at Flagstaff. There are the central popular areas like the Monkey Traverse, Beer Barrel, Red Wall, Capstan, and Cloud Shadow areas, but also many outlying areas that give some relief from the afterwork crowds, these are the Candle area, Pumpkin Rock, and Upper area. Climbing at Flag has several prerequisites. The climbing tends to be powerful, and quite bold sometimes. The rock will quickly tear up your fingers because of its sandpaper consistency, yet feel greasy at the same time. I have always found the place particularly conductive to circuits, starting at the Upper area and working down to Pumpkin Rock, one can do around 100 problems in the v0-v5 range. One can conduct innumerable ciruits from these problems. Some good problems at Flag include Cloud Shadow Traverse (v2-v6), Hagans Wall (v5), Consideration (v3), Monkey Traverse (v3, greasy and often too crowded), Pratts Mantle (v2), south arete of Beer Barrel (v0), Polling Pebble (v5), Tree Slab Traverse (v1), right side of Redwall (v4 very height dependant), King Conquerer (v2 scary!). Harder problems (which I have not done but are obviously classic), Just Right (v7), Undercling Traverse (v9), Hollows Way (v8), Mongolian Cosmonaut (v8), Over Yourself (v10), Ooze Pig (v7), Trice (fifth class, I believe it has still never been repeated since holloway did it in the 70's, and not for lack of trying)
Getting There
Take Baseline Road west, go up the hill trying to avoid the flashy bikers. There are several places to park. The Capstan is a 30' spire in the middle of a hairpin turn, one can park here or continue on to the first lot on the left after the Capstan, this will take you to the Monkey Traverse area or across the road to Red Wall. Another thing to mention is that Flag is within reasonable walking distance from CU, it is about 1.5 miles away from campus, yet I have made this walk innumerable times, it takes about a half hour and is highly enjoyable.
This Traverse covers the whole of the area from left to right. Start at whichever end you prefer. This is often regarded as one of the best traverses in Flagstaff due to its overhanging but positive holds. Many variations exist, come up with one of your own!...[more]
FLAGSTAFF IS A AWSOME PLACE TO TAKE BEGINERS LOTS OF GOOD TOP ROPES AND SOME GOOD REPELING! AND THE BEST PART IS MOST OF IT IS A SHORT TWO MINUTE WALK FROM THE ROAD
Not much can be said concerning the wonderful bouldering at Flagstaff. Both the history and profundity of rock on the mountain is overwhelming. But here's the deal - it's filthy. I know damn well it isn't only climbers (as a matter of fact it's mostly the climbers making any concerted effort to keep the place looking snazzy), but let's step up to the plate and pretty the place up. If we all brought one Safeway or "whatever" bag every time we travelled to the crags, and tried to fill it, think of the improvement. It takes minimal time and minimal effort. Anyway, love the place, love the site.
I don't think Flagstaff is for beginners. Very sharp grit will shread your hands. You must be able to Boulder in the mid to upper V scale or you will be frustrated on many sandbagged ratings. Great place to go though, but too many gapers. Beginners should look at Mt. Sanitas. Problems shouldn't tear your hands as much and lots of hot babes chillin.
I have had an unbelievable amount of luck hitch-hiking up to flagstaff from baseline rd...this is awesome if you don't have a car, and it's the hikers and climbers that mostly pick up folks---thank yall
OHHHHHH...mommy, my hands won't quit hurting. The rock is all sharp and hurty...sob, ohh, boo, hoo. If I would have just climbed at the BRC my hands wouldn't hurt so bad. Hope none of you whiners ever want to come out to Yosemite and climb long cracks, because you might drown the party that was about to pass you with your hurty hand tears. Come on grow a pair and enjoy the great bouldering on Flag without all the moans. Props to the clean up dude, Flag needs it!!
Does anyone know anything about the boulder just above the parking area on the right after the main monkey traverse parking area? There was some chalk on some up problems, but there is also quite a good traverse from right to left . Just wondering if anyone has done it before, I'm sure someone has.
Well AC, I will actually admit to doing umpteen silly little vertical problems on it as well as the right to left traverse in 1999. As you know, plenty of people have probably fooled around on it through the years, although it has never been included or mentioned in any guides. The problems are too short to be of interest to most boulderers ... nevertheless, it is one of the nicer boulders for full-on beginners; ie: nice landings, short falls, pad not required, etc.
I dubbed it Tutorial Rock for a couple sessions I had up on Flag with some friends who really don't climb much. The traverse actually held my attention for a few trips up there. Of note, someone pried a HUGE rail toward the end of the traverse (it's obvious where) in late 2002 after the new trail was built. It was a super-cool incut feature handlebar 3 feet long. I have yet to devote myself to repeating it since. Anyway, the following is copied straight outta the yet-to-be published 636 problem Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering Map & Guide, which I have made some major strides on in the last week or so. There are many other variations, mantels, blah, blah, blah. FWIW, these are the problems (right to left across the boulder) I thought were worth a little bit of space in my guide:
___ TUTORIAL ROCK ___10. Tutorial Traverse V?Begin on the far right. Traverse left all the way into Layback Lesson staying as low as possible. Originally V4/5, someone pulled off a huge rail in 2002 making it quite a bit harder.11. Heel-Hook Lesson VBStart on two pebbles just over the lip, heel-hook/mantel and pull over.12. Lunge Lesson V1 *Where a huge rail used to be, start on the right edges. With minimal feet, make a big move to the lip and pull up and over.13. Layback Lesson V1 sdsStart right of the crack from a sds. Move into the good layaways, then layback to the top and pull over.14. Lesson's Over V4 sdsStart left of the crack from a sds. Do a long move from slopers to a painfully sharp incut edge, then pull again to the lip and over.15. Class Dismissed VB sdsOn the far left, ascend the somewhat sharp, short and easy face just left of the small pine tree. Be kind to the tree.
You may also be interested in these boulders as well. They are located 1/2-way between the Crown Rock Parking Area and Red Wall out in the "meadow." All the problems are on the west faces of the boulders going right to left toward Red Wall.
___ MEADOW BOULDERS ___(1st boulder)1. Meadow Traverse V0 sds / V2 sdsFrom a sds on holds way down on the right, traverse left all the way into and up Left Side. For V0, use the high jugs. For V2, stay low all the way, avoiding the jugs. A backbending challenge indeed.2. Right Arête V0 sds *Begin from a low sds on a rail, climb straight to up and over. A hidden 2-finger divot up over the top should help.3. Right of Center VB sdsBegin from a sds and climb out the right side past jugs then slopers.4. Double Mantel VB sdsBegin from a sds and move up to jugs. With one hand on each side of the huge hueco, double mantel to get your feet up and reach the top. Very easy.5. Left of Center VB sdsBegin from a sds on good edges, move up to jugs that turn to slopers on your way to the top.6. Left Side VB sdsOn the left edge of the overhang, begin from a sds, move up past 2 slopers to jugs. Continue up and over with branches behind you.(2nd boulder)7. Diamond in the Rough V2 sds *From a low sds on the corner beneath the large jug, yank to the jug, then cruise the good holds all the way up this little known gem.8. West Overhang Right V1From good starting holds under the overhang, move directly right and pull over.9. West Overhang Left V0Start on good holds under the overhang, move left up the crack and pull over.
Thankf for the beta Chip! Also some additional comments: What is the VB rating? I don't believe I've seen it before. Also, the traverse on tutorial rock is probably still V4/V5 without the big hold.
Well AC, I revisited Tutorial Rock when you suggested it was still V4/5 without the huge handlebar rail. While I will agree that the high traverse riding the lip could fairly be graded V4 or and deserving of a *, the low traverse dropping down from the slopers just past the two pebbles to what is left of the rail, continuing left into the start for Layback Lesson and then up, is quite a bit harder and less enjoyable on crumbly sharp rock. Its too bad the handlebar rail went bye bye. It was a truly awesome finish.
Flagstaff is a great place to find "new" problems, especially if you have been bouldering for a while. Now I don't mean FA's, those are few and far between. I am talking about walking that extra little bit to the boulder you keep seeing just off the road, down the hill, or across the valley. Get off the beaten path, walking on hard surfaces of course, and explore! Usually it doesn't take too long to find something up on Flagstaff that will intrigue you for weeks. The best part is you tell your buddies about your latest project and they've never heard of it, or they've always wondered about that boulder and just never had the time to explore. The rock is gritty, but suck it up and after a couple of days you won't notice.
I'm new to the area and just starting to get aquainted with the local spots. Does anyone know what the south arete of the North Boulders go at? The boulder I am referring too is the closest to the Red Wall, there is an obvious sit start on two underclings to some pinches and slopers. Name? Grade?
Thanks for the plug Caleb. FWIW, the blog-guide on the above link should be completed by the end of 2008.
It was always my hope that I would publish this guide as a fold-out map on tear-proof/waterproof kevlar paper. At this time, however, I believe the online format works best for this sort of endeavor. Entries may be edited/modified, etc. as unknown and new information comes to light.
Thus far, 244 problems covering only a limited portion of the mountain are up on the blog-guide. More should be up soon. Hopefully, it will be a great resource for those of us who enjoy venturing up Flagstaff for some fun.
Flagstaff
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