It seems that either you love this problem or you hate it. Some people swoon over the overhanging crimpy moves, and some say it's the reason to hate Flagstaff. I personally fall in with the swooning crowd.
With hard body tension moves on small crimps, this is my favorite line on the upper ridge. Start on holds at about four feet high and make a long right hand reach to a sharp as hell crimp. Pull with all your might and go straight up through two side pull crimps to a jug at the lip. Does it get any better?
Last week the top sidepull (right hand; last hold before the jugs) snapped off on me.
It looked like there was still a hold there, but I imagine things have gotten a bit more difficult. Haven't tried it yet to find out, since I'm still bruised up from the fall. (No spotter = wakup call for me! I'm very lucky it was only bruises....)
Just did this problem today and there seems to be no change in difficulty. The side-pull mentioned is more of an intermediate hold and can be skipped altogether if you're strong. I've been doing this problem for twenty years and haven't noticed a change in difficulty (it used to be called B-1 minus--one of the easier B-1s on Flagstaff). Now if the first crimper or the next (left) side-pull ever breaks off.....that'll really change things.
By Charles Vernon From: I'm in transition right now May 4, 2003
Just did this today and to echo Mark, it seems to be one of the easiest problems of this range on Flag, much easier for me than Hagan's, Poling Pebble, routes on the Red Wall, etc. Regardless, I will join Adam as a member of the "swooners" when it comes to this problem, it's great!
In agreeance with the reletively easy movement for the grade on this fine piece of stone, I urge all "Boulderers" that take the easy exit off to the right to suck it up and go straight through the upper bulge, or better yet connect to King Conquer! The combination of physical and mental challenge make this problem exemplary for the grade.
Easiest V5 I've ever tried....second try.... Assuming I used the right sequence..... Start on two crimps, right hand up to thin crimp, left hand to sidepull, big move to jug and topout? That sound right?
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