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Eric Varney Direct 

V5

   

FA: probabbly eric varney
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V5 [details]
Views: 537 page views

Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001


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Description 

A great problem! Vertical pocket pulling! Start with the right hand in an infamous sloping dish and left in the heel hook jug for the center left route. Cross over with the left to a small not too good three finger edge. Right hand goes directly above it to a shallow two finger pocket, left hand out to a good edge, then up. Tweaky.


Protection 

#11 hex.



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By Owen Silver
Mar 10, 2003

This is a really hard, but great problem. If you are taller than 5'11", it's possible to reach the right hand crimp without stepping your right foot up to the tiny marked hold, and that may make a difference for some.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Dec 27, 2003

For full value start on the good incut flake just below the big jug on the left. A longish move to the soap dish joins the regular problem. For fuller value, there is a contrived sit start just to the right of the flake and jug(Off for hands and feet). Start on two small crimps and get a pretty small sidepull with the right hand.Pull past a couple of thin crimps to the three finger edge and finish. After comparison with problems such as Swiss Crisp Mix at Hueco, it may be worth V10. Strictly for connoisseurs of the ridiculous.

By Jordan Wood
Jan 22, 2006

I used the small crimp just below the pocket. Is it supposed to be "off"?