The monkey traverse is the center piece of the south side of Flagstaff.It's popular with first time Boulderers who spend most of the time falling off the first couple of moves and grizzled veterans who delight in cruising their one thousandth lap in front of them. The namesake traverse is a must do. Several high ball problems exist as well as a difficult low ball version of the traverse.
Getting There
From the main parking area hike due South for 50 yards passing Smith Overhand along the way. This is a large west facing wall with lots of chalk and an obvious traverse.
The stellar Monkey Traverse is perhaps the most chalked piece of rock at Flagstaff.This pumpy and technical traverse is highly recommended and worth the effort required to beg, borrow or steal the requisite beta. The traverse is most often done right to left, but the return trip earns extra credit. The traditional version climbs at mid-height and logically breaks into 3 sections each separated by a no hands rest. The first section is juggy and o...[more]
A very large boulder seems to have been recently "relocated" from beneath the final moves of the left side of the traverse. Definately seems like some aggressive and dubious landscaping practices have been employed here.
That sucks if that boulder was relocated. That thing has threatened to bust my ankle every time I consider doing the top out (for this reason I have never tried it). If we're thinking of the same boulder, it must weigh over 400 lbs, I'm amazed it could be moved. Anyway this boulder was part of the challenge of the problem, it's not the same problem without it.
George, it actually seems that the boulder that was above the finish hasn't been moved, but smashed to pieces. Indeed, the villian(s) responsible for this have forever changed the character of a decades-old classic and beautiful bouldering traverse.
The boulder below the finish was moved sometime last fall. The first time I noticed "the move" was immediately after last years Flagstaff trail work and cleanup weekend. I sincerley hoped this was just coincidence.
I posted this disheartening change to the frontrangebouldering.com message board and the overwhelming response would fall in the categories of either "I don't care its just Flagstaff", "its better with the rock moved", or "boulders move... the rains probably did it".
I broke my wrist on that boulder 6 years ago. (Brain Fart) There use be a tree there to (Early 90's) if my memory serves me right. I don't think "Landscraping" is a very good idea. I also think it's kind of Lame. - Chris W.
I [don't] know what kind of jerk would have done something like this, but sometime between August 26 and 27 someone put a bunch of crap all on the good holds. And by crap, I mean definite, human crap. Its pretty disgusting, and I was appalled by this lack of respect for the rock and for fellow climbers. Just beware when you go up here next, as the problem is a little harder now that you have to avoid the feces.
Time will clean it just fine, that some some use after a week+ of baking in the sun. Bring a moist towelette or a dozen. We should be more worried about the person who plays with his dung than the fact that it was done to a climb. Quite strange and disturbing.
Just a guess, but this assinine behavior sounds like a frat initiation prank. Why would a person go all the way up there and do this unless they were put up to it. Anyway, anyone have a portable high pressure power washer out there and willing to clean this up?
You know, I would guess frat-initation prank, too, if it weren't for the fact that someone had done this with the oil at Morrison. We're headed up there tonight or tomorrow with some soap, water, brush, and a lonnnnng stick to scrub what we can. A pressure washer might be needed to finish the job.
This seems to be a new low in the annals of Boulder climbing. People suck.
Myself and a friend got the remainder of the crap off last night with some warm water, soft nylon-bristled brushes and biodegradable eco-soap. It should be OK now. Most of the feces were smeared on the first half of the traverse (right side)--not necessarily on holds, but on the edges of holds and in some random spots on the rock. Basically, wherever this person could reach from the ground.
Apparently someone has been doing this to signs and OSMP vehicles on Flag for a while, so it could be the same person. Hopefully this will stop.
Of course it's all guessing, but I'd be more inclined to attribute this to the late night partiers that have been leaving trash and breaking beer bottles against rocks at Flagstaff for as long as I've been climbing up there, than to a frat prank.
Yep, went up there today and there's still shit smeared all over the holds. Must have been someone who's never climbed it before b/c they hit the non-crucial holds for the most part. Dumb shits, people suck.
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