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The Capstan

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Just Right 
Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) 
South Crack 
West Face [The Capstan] 

The Capstan

Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Views: 219 page views

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Description 

great rock, with some difficult boulder problems at the base and some highball boulder problems/short TR climbs. Huecos line the lower third of the rock and are filled with chalk, making it immediately noticable from the road. For TR: Two nice horns are perfect for two five foot slings. Access to the top is via an easier boulder problem on the north side just off the road. There's a hard-to-see crimper on the slight gully up the rock that makes the problem much easier; above that it's an easy scramble. Watch out for cars.


Getting There 

1.4 miles up Baseline (measured from the fire danger sign) at the hairpin turn. It's hard to miss. You can park on the left side of the road (driving up the road) and park directly underneath.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Capstan:
South Crack   V2 X     Boulder   
Just Right   V7     Boulder   
West Face [The Capstan]   5.10a     TR   
Browse More Classics in The Capstan

Featured Route For The Capstan
Only the beginning of Just Right.

Just Right V7  CO : Boulder : ... : The Capstan
This is a historic Flagstaff testpiece and definitely the most public of Flagstaff's harder problems, sitting only 15 feet from the road.Just Right climbs the overhanging southeast side of Capstan Rock and is above the right edge of the platform facing the road. It features an obvious lunge move to a sloping but well-textured pocket high and right.Originally (and most commonly) done with a cheater stone start that allows you to reach the opposing...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of The Capstan Slideshow Add Photo
Copperhead at the Capstan...<br /><br />    ...yeah, someone just smashed a penny     into the rock.

Copperhead at the Capstan...

...yeah, someone...