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Mickey Mouse Wall
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Green Dihedral 

5.7

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 703 page views

Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001


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William Prehm moving through the roof traverse on ...


Description 

To quote Rossiter, "Good routes in this grade are scarce." Find a large L-facing dihedral about 40m left of Shiva's Dance. Climb the great corner to a good ledge. P2: Follow the arcing dihedral until it becomes nearly horizontal (crux) and setup a hanging belay from a huge mess of slings. This climb is awesome, and commiting for the grade. The crux and exposure of this climb are really on the edge for a "5.7" climber. Awesome lead and a perfect crack.


Protection 

Standard rack with extra large pro up to #4 Friend. Single, 50m rope to rap.



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BETA PHOTO
John Cioci finishes up on what must be one of the best pitches of 5.7 in Boulder County- Green Dihedral, at Micky Mouse Wall. Don't forget your second rope, to rap down. Photo by Tony Bubb, 1999.

John Cioci finishes up on what must be one of the ...


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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 13, 2001

TWO ropes (~135')for the descent from P2. Quality route.

By pete cogan
Aug 21, 2001

Terrific route, lots of good pro with hexes, can use a single rope, and rap to the 12b anchors, then to the ground.

By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
Oct 7, 2001

Sustained is a good word for this gem. Above the unsightly nest of slings (the hanging belay) is another stretch of crack that continues with the same genuine quality caliber of the hand traverse to the hanging belay. Grab a breather at the hanging belay and go for the top instead of rapping. It's short and goes to another unsightly nest of slings, but adds a few more moves of great climbing.

By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Nov 2, 2001

Can be done as one pitch if you're 'solid at the grade' ;-). The second time around makes the route seem a little harder than 5.7--maybe 8-.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 12, 2002

This finish can be extended so you don't have to rappel off that ugly nest of slings, if you don't trust them. You can go up to the ledge above, then downclimb the slabby ramp carefully to a 2 bolt anchor. From there, it's 2 rappels to the ground. May make is R or S to finish this way.

By Scott Thompson
Oct 5, 2002

This is a fantastic line! I agree with Ben: it is [definitely] the spiciest and most committing [Eldo] 7 I've done, and feels like 8- if done as one pitch, which I fully recommend--more bang for your buck, and the climbing flows so well! That sling belay is horrendous at the end, but for me, it was a relief to stop there after the pumpy section before it!

By Andy Moore
Oct 28, 2003

Excellent climb. On the second pitch, in the left-facing corner before it arches left, there are some slightly loose chockstones and flakes. Be wary of where you place pro.

I agree with the recommendation to pass up the hanging belay at the end of the traverse on the second pitch and go straight up another short bit of exciting climbing to the next mess of slings (up and to the left a bit). A large cam (#4Fr, #3.5Cam) is nice to have handy to place in a slot to the right as you pull up above the hanging belay.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 29, 2004
rating: 5.7+

This is really a great line and can be done on a standard rack. Regardless of the grade you climb, this is a fun [outing]. As previously stated, you can add 40 feet to the climb by going up and left from the first [belay] to a second station in a single lead, making this one of the finest single pitches of it's grade in the area.

By Gary Schmidt
Sep 10, 2007

If this route were in Eldo proper, there would be constant lines. Classic climbing and nicely sustained at 5.7.

By Andy Kowles
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 5, 2007
rating: 5.7+

A stout 5.7, and the 1st pitch of Red Dihedral is a stout 5.6. Bring some extra big cams (I had an extra #3 Camalot and a #4) and sew it up. Wicked good moves throughout. The upper rap station (among other things) is hollow, and had I known beforehand I would have followed Leo Paik's advice above.