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Vergin' on Perversion 

5.11c R

   

FA: DeMallie & Hare - 1989
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.11+ [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 400 feet
Views: 209 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 12, 2005


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Description 

Vergin' on Perversion climbs the arete just right of the obvious Perversion dihedral system. The line is a bit contrived in places, but the rock and climbing is brillant. Two or three stars for the first three pitches for sure.

P1: Scramble up and left on some ledges and start up a thin crack with two or three bolts. About 50' up you can step right, following a line of bolts around the arete. Belay on an obvious ledge at a single bolt and some gear. 110' 5.11a

P2: Climb a short (30') dihedral. It would be sensible to link this with either P1 or P3. Belay on a ledge. 5.9

P3: Follow the line of bolts back out to the arete, and eventually around the corner (crux). There are two 5.11 sections on this pitch. Belay at two bolts. 115' Quickdraws only for this pitch.

P4: Wander up and right, passing a tree on your left, on easy ground. Perform an unprotected 5.8ish move at the arete (lots of lichen here), then step up and slightly left to clip the lone bolt on this pitch. An easy 5.10 face move gains easy climbing to the top. 120' 5.10a


Protection 

Single set of cams to 0.75 Camalot, wires, 10 draws.



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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 15, 2005

Josh, where is the "s" on this route? I did it many years ago, and I don't remember anything too scary. Maybe, on the first pitch? Or the last pitch?

By Josh Janes
Administrator
Nov 15, 2005

The runout is on the last pitch - heading up to the lone bolt. If you did OK on the 5.11c, then it's unlikely you'll have a problem, but the fall would be pretty bad.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 16, 2005

Thanks, Josh! Then, I don't recommend anyone avoid this route because of the "s" in the rating. I was barely able to second the 5.11 pitches, yet I led the last one and have no memory of being worried.