The reach at the second bolt on the arête (5th bol...
Description
Vergin' on Perversion climbs the arete just right of the obvious Perversion dihedral system. The line is a bit contrived in places, but the rock and climbing is brillant. Two or three stars for the first three pitches for sure.
P1: Scramble up and left on some ledges and start up a thin crack with two or three bolts. About 50' up you can step right, following a line of bolts around the arete. Belay on an obvious ledge at a single bolt and some gear. 110' 5.11a.
P2: Climb a short (30') dihedral. It would be sensible to link this with either P1 or P3. Belay on a ledge. 5.9.
P3: Follow the line of bolts back out to the arete, and eventually around the corner (crux). There are two 5.11 sections on this pitch. Belay at two bolts. 115' Quickdraws only for this pitch.
P4: Wander up and right, passing a tree on your left, on easy ground. Perform an unprotected 5.8ish move at the arete (lots of lichen here), then step up and slightly left to clip the lone bolt on this pitch. An easy 5.10 face move gains easy climbing to the top. 120' 5.10a.
Protection
Single set of cams to #0.75 Camalot, wires, 10 draws.
The runout is on the last pitch - heading up to the lone bolt. If you did OK on the 5.11c, then it's unlikely you'll have a problem, but the fall would be pretty bad.
Thanks, Josh! Then, I don't recommend anyone avoid this route because of the "s" in the rating. I was barely able to second the 5.11 pitches, yet I led the last one and have no memory of being worried.
P1 is good by itself as a long 10 mixed section to the 11a bolted crux. There were several hard moves on the 10 section with some funky rock. There was one runout near the top where you start a 9 sequence with the gear below your feet. You may be able to sling a thin and doubtful flake on the right if you are tall enough. There are 3 bolts near the bottom and 3 bolts at the 11a crux plus another higher bolt. I used gear to a gold Camalot. There may be placements for bigger cams to #4 Camalot. At the ledge, it's best to use a very long (triple length) sling on the single bolt and then move left and belay from gear at the bottom of the Perversion corner. You can then escape left to rap from a tree.
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