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The Fornicator 

5.11c

   

FA: adams and anderson
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c/d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 432 page views

Submitted By: richard magill on Feb 16, 2004


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Luna Kyly on The Fornicator, 11c.


Description 

Between "Real Men of Genius" and "The Adultress" is "The Fornicator".

An excellent route with some 10d/11a slabbing that leads to a crux around the 6th bolt. The crux involves some insecure sidepulling and footwork to work through an overhanging apex.Difficult to onsite, but not so bad if you know where you are going.

After the crux, there is a no hands rest and then the climbing stays overhanging on big juggy huecoes (10+).

The route doesn't quite pack the multiple crux punch of "Real Men", but it is pretty sweet.


Protection 

A dozen bolts to anchors.



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Luna Kyly on The Fornicator, 11c.

Luna Kyly on The Fornicator, 11c.

Luna Kyly on The Fornicator, 11c.

Luna Kyly on The Fornicator, 11c.


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By Nate Adams
Feb 19, 2004
rating: 5.11c

From a purely objective, unbiased standpoint, this gets my nomination for Best Route in the Universe. Three stars, baby!

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 15, 2004

Wow! Spectacular line! We sure don't have routes like this in Kansas!

By Nate Adams
Mar 15, 2004
rating: 5.11c

I noticed my prior star rating didn't get averaged with Tod and Rich.

By A concerned citizen
Mar 15, 2004

Holy cow! Amazing!

By gumbi
Mar 15, 2004

A bit crowded, but a great line. Kudos to the installers' obvious genius.

By morkel
Dec 16, 2006

A runner is nice on the third to last bolt.