Chuck's clipping the bolt at the crux. The bottom ...
Description
Note that we only did the second pitch after rapping from another climb and traversing across the big ledge system on the lower half of Mickey Mouse Wall*
Lifestream goes up the left side of the arete at the far left of the Mickey Mouse Wall. Climb up past a gear placement and then past [8] bolts to a two-bolt anchor (note the anchors do not have lowering rings and could use a pair of quicklinks up there). Two cruxes - one at the first bolt, one at the fifth. Lots of interesting sequences made this climb enjoyable.
Rap with a 60m rope to a grassy ledge ten feet above the main ledge.
The first pitch looks decent but nothing special. The [definite] meat of the route is the second pitch.
Protection
Second pitch is [8] bolts to a two-bolt anchor, bring a [#2 Friend] to protect the run to the first bolt. First pitch supposedly takes gear to one inch [and has 1 bolt].
This description above does not match the guidebook description nor the topo, although in retrospect perhaps I should have gone that way yesterday. I was assuming the bolts out left above the 3rd were for another route. We went up and right from the third bolt to a ledge at the base of a vertical scooped out zone below the 4th bolt, but the pro was scant with a bad fall potential, so we backed off before clipping the 4th bolt. Does anyone know more about where the route goes at this point or how to get decent gear?
First pitch is a boulder problem and is OK. Rossiter points out a third pitch as well. Directly above the 2nd pitch anchor he claims that the arete is 10-. Too bad it was totally unproteced mossy and contrived. Third pitch not worth doing.
If you're feeling weak, volunteer to lead the first pitch! IMHO, this is one of the easiest 10d's around. The crux on p2 is much harder, and I injured my shoulder struggling from an iron cross position. Still a fun and worthwhile route!
I can't remember if it was this climb or "Vergin' on Perversion" that I messed my shoulder up on. Anyway, if you find yourself in a strenuous iron cross on either of these, you are probably not doing it the right (easiest) way.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Sep 7, 2005
This 2nd pitch is a real gem! Thanks, Richard, Joyce, & Steve! Just enough spice. Bring your tight slippers/face climbing shoes, though. P1 isn't the heart of the climb, although a reach L or crossing over with the R to the rail above the bolt helps. For P2, you can belay from the tree at the ledge & a #2Friend fits before the 1st bolt. Didn't find any other natural pro. You can pull the crux at the 2nd bolt either L or precariously on the arete to the R. Interesting sequences at each bolt, high steps, arete slapping, decent rests, a thumb mantle & even a heel hook. Another amazing find! Also, seem to have left a #4 Camalot near the base here :(
Josh, I believe it indicates where your route description was edited. I've noticed that if I misspell a word it will sometimes appear corrected in brackets.
Mickey Mouse Wall
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