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The Offset 

5.9+ R

   

FA: George Hurley, Mike Yokel
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Views: 103 page views

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2002


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The crux is getting to, protecting and climbing th...


Description 

This is a nice TR or runout lead. Just left of Shiva's Dance, Monks in the Gym, and Skink's Lip. This follows a shallow, left-facing dihedral to an angling ledge, move right, and up into another, more-difficult dihedral to a ledge. Rappel 70 feet. Solid for the rating.


Protection 

Wires, Aliens, Friends to #3. Lightly protected.



Add Photo Photos of The Offset

BETA PHOTO
Brass in mouth, getting the first piece in. 5.8 bouldering gets you to this point which is maybe 10' off the ground.<br /><br />Photo by Luke Clarke.

Brass in mouth, getting the first piece in. 5.8 bo...

Placing several marginal piecesa the bottom of the right crack. There's not much for the hands, but the feet are good. My left foot is on a slanting ramp. You can step up onto this ramp above the left crack and then carefully move right, but on the lead you probably want to stay low, stem to where my right foot is, and then bring your left foot up.<br /><br />Photo by Luke Clarke.

Placing several marginal piecesa the bottom of the...

Same position as the previous photo. The crux for me was the next 6 feet. Climb the "crack" directly or to the left?<br /><br />Photo by Luke Clarke.

Same position as the previous photo. The crux for ...


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By Ivan Rezucha
Oct 9, 2005
rating: 5.10a

Old school 9+ for sure. I first climbed this in '78. Young and foolish? Don't remember, but probably so. No cams then, but did have RPs which are the key gear. Perhaps there were a couple of pins, but it was S back then also. Yesterday, I was maxed out repeating this. The shadows from the morning light made the holds and cracks look bigger than they are, so it seemed like this would be a good warmup. Bad choice! From the top of the left crack the gear was brass good for rightward pull, #0 TCU, tiny sideways brass good to the right. Then at the right crack, tiny brass sideways good for nothing. Then tiny brass that pulled through on the first test. A shallow regular nut in the same opening. Then, a decent brass higher than that. Most of these pieces were fair, but having so many just "fair" pieces in a row was really stressful. Double ropes are useful to prevent sideways pulls on the bottom nuts in the right crack.