Perhaps the best line on Ridge 2, Eldorado Gold starts off in a shallow corner system just about where the slab appears to drop one off into the void. Scramble down the slab with care; staying left of the trees adds significantly to the comfort factor. The climbing starts in the corner and works its way around the corner/arete for half a dozen bolts on intricate and in-obvious moves. Pull a small roof at 65 ft on okay edges to gain a final vertical face with thin edgy moves, long reaches, and a technical crux (mid 5.11). Three stars for the perfect stone, superb continuity, and intricate climbing. I keep saying this, but here is yet another classic route by the World's Hottest Teacher, Ken Trout.
Protection
QD only. This 80 ft route needs 9 to 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
A weak two star. The climbing is good, but the fact that the crux is contrived detracts substantially. The crux is a long reach to a jug btw the 2nd and 3rd bolts and can be avoided by staying in the corner. The climbing beyond this point is good but felt considerably easier than Completion Backward Principle. I found CBP a much more interesting climb.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Aug 23, 2004 rating: 5.11a
The route is probably not harder than 10d for the tall, but could be much harder for the short. THe crux pull is a matter of how high you have to lock off on a decent edge to reach the jug, or if you have to pinch and shuffle your way up it. As well, if you skip the crux to the left, the climb is probably 10b or 10c. Kinda fun, but not great. 1-2 stars. Certainly plenty of bolts.
Secret Crag
RSS Feed
