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Mind Control 

5.10d

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Sport
Views: 262 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 8, 2001


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At crux


Description 

The first route encountered on the West end of Ridge 2, Mind Control ascends what amounts to a separate buttress on Ridge 2 that seems to project itself higher than anything else around. The route fires up a sub-vertical slab that starts in the trees, the rock is edgy and gray colored and reminds me of the upper routes on Ridge 4. The object appears to be to shift around an arete like thing to get established on the face, and this seemed to me to be the crux. Once on the face, just hold it together between bolts, which seems spacey, and dance up on largely good edges and thin flakes. It seemed to me that just about every move was 5.10- so the climbing was very continuous. Mind Control is a fine line and worth the hump by itself.


Protection 

QD only. This 100 ft route needs 8 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



Photos of Mind Control Slideshow Add Photo
After the insecure move around the arete.

After the insecure move around the arete.

After the insecure move around the arete. Move a bit further right then do several difficult thin moves up to the next bolt. Then move right again to easier climbing. The moves up were the crux for me (rather than the moves around the arete).

After the insecure move around the arete. Move a b...

On the easy but fun climbing. The climb moves right towards the arete, up and then eventually back left to the anchors.

On the easy but fun climbing. The climb moves righ...