Just up from the tracks is a very steep arete problem (route #1, Tunnel Vision), two routes left is Soul Train. The climbing starts off on a bulge that traverses left for a bolt or two and then heads largely straight up toward the severely overhanging start of TGV. One of the moderate lines at TIW, Soul Train sports some interesting pockets and huecos, edges, and layaways. The climbing seemed to hang in with very continuous 5.11+ moves until a clip or two below the anchor where a burly 5.12b sequence crops up. Good stone, interesting moves, and a bit of an odd line inasmuch as it wanders around some. The double bolt anchor at the top of Soul Train serves as the bely to TGV; so if you hike the first part.........
Don't use Soul Train as a start to TGV. The rope drag alone will guarantee you never get the crux. A much better option is to do a short climb/scramble found downhill a short distance which easily leads to a huge ledge and a set of anchors. Bring a rope and draws and drop the rope down to your belayer.
Yes, this is how the FA was done. The scramble is just down from the start of Tunnel Vision - a crack in a slab with a small tree (there used to be a sling to grab). Then circle around until you are at the notch at the start of Tracktion p2 (note correct spelling).
I used Soul Train to warm up for TGV then left the anchor draws but cleaned the ones on the route. Scramble around, reach out and tie in then put your climbing shoes on and toss you tennis shoes down. It's a pretty good warm up, though some may want something harder, and it gets your rope in the right place.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
