Ridge 1 has always seemed like a "wilderness" crag perhaps because it takes longer to get there. In addition, the crag faces a bit more West than the others and the view is pretty much into the hills. On average climbing here is more difficult than at the other ridge crags, with a lot of 5.12 and at least one Alan Nelson 5.13. There are, however, a number of fine 5.9 and 5.10 routes to be had as well. The most distant section of Ridge 1, the most West and most uphill, has the best unbroken sweep of rock with some major overhangs to be had. The section lower on the hill has some ledge systems that break up the continuity. A notch separates the higher and lower sections and this has several lines in it as well. As with most of the Wild West, it is almost mandatory to bring the trad rack unless you have a specific bolted line in mind. A full set of Friends and a fist full of wired stoppers will cover most things. Ridge 1 is a really cool spot and a highly interesting way to get off the beaten path, pick up some sun, and almost never run into another party.
Getting There
Getting to Ridge 1 is largely no different a plan than that used for getting to Ridge 2. Simply follow the main trail around West passing the branch to Ridge 2. It feels a little like walking all of the way around the hill, but just stay with it until it drops you at the base of the crags, the South tip.
Between "Real Men of Genius" and "The Adultress" is "The Fornicator". An excellent route with some 10d/11a slabbing that leads to a crux around the 6th bolt. The crux involves some insecure sidepulling and footwork to work through an overhanging apex.Difficult to onsite, but not so bad if you know where you are going.After the crux, there is a no hands rest and then the climbing stays overhanging on big juggy huecoes (10+). The route doesn't qu...[more]
I've copied Tod Anderson's comments regarding access issues for Ridge One. There is only one tunnel on the way to the crag. This tunnel is easily bypassed via a trail to the east, which adds a few minutes to the walk. The railroad maintenance guys I've encountered on the tracks have been friendly, but it is probably best to keep a low profile, and avoid walking on the tracks when possible. The maintenance trucks are very quiet - you may not hear one until it's too late.
"It is important to be discrete when accessing the Wild West/West Bank or Mickey Mouse from the Plainview area. First, don't park at the Plainview railroad crossing. This is because it is a lot more obvious to sensitive residents that you are in the area and painfully obvious that you are walking on the tracks. It is much better to park a couple of hundred yards below the crossing on the last left hand switchback and walk due west through the Open Space to access the tracks beyond the maintenance yard and out of sight. It's also less obvious that you're climbing as a lot of people come to this area to walk their dogs along the roadway, etc.
Second, don't walk through the tunnel to get to the West Bank, Ridge One, etc. A well marked trail leads around the tunnel and it only takes about five minutes more than walking through the tunnel. This track has a lot more traffic than in years past with sometimes several trains per hour. There have been a lot of problems here before, so keep a low profile".
Ridge 1
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