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DescriptionSometime in the mid 80s this large sector of Eldorado Mountain was developed by a host of Boulder and Denver climbers. Ken Trout, Tod Anderson, Dave Fields, Ziggy, Mark Rolofson, myself, and a many others contributed to development. These fairly short crags all face South, hold numerous routes, and due to restrictions of some private property, the Railroad, and the town of Plainview, have seen little action in the last 8 years. Every now and then we make the pilgrimage to the West Bank, keeping a low profile, and this has never caused any trouble, but caution is always in order. The area is composed of seven ridges and some large erratics sporting a route or two. The Secret crag is reckoned as Ridge 2 and is the most prominent of the seven ridges, and at least one of its routes dates back to a Jim Erickson ascent in the 70s. Ridge 1 takes off right at tunnel 3 on the South side. Ridges 2, 4, 6, and 7 hold 90% of the climbing. The rock seems to me more like Eldorado Canyon than Mickey Mouse, is full of edges, flakes, and corners. Most of the stone is a fine quality sandstone and well worth the hike in. Just leave the boom-box at home. Getting ThereFrom the railroad tracks, and between tunnels 2 and 3, a faint trail takes off up a short grassy slope and into the forest. Follow the trail up-hill until it dumps out at the base of long talus field. Enter the talus in its middle and after 50 ft a trail of blocks leads left (West) through the talus. At the end of the talus, pass a couple of large blocks on their downhill side and cut sharply right and uphill. The trail wanders through a sparse, section of the forest to a very steep, bolted overhang. This is the start of Ridge two. Numbering begins with this overhang (#1, Drive By Shooting, 5.12a). The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ridge 4:
Ms. Coolie's Saloon aka Killer Elite 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch
Wild Wild West 5.12a Sport, 70 feet
Occupied Territory 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Featured Route For Ridge 4
Ms. Coolie's Saloon aka Killer Elite 5.12a CO : Boulder : ... : Ridge 4
My favorite climb on Ridge 4, Killer Elite takes the face just left of Pinch. Climbing starts in a shallow alcove off a flat base. A thin, left-facing corner is actually taken on the face to the left, with the fingers in the corner. The corner fades away with a reachy traverse left before kicking straight up to the anchor. Chase upwards on a relentless series of thin fingery edges and crystals. For its grade, Killer Elite is fantast...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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