Several years ago a group of hard-core radsters from Boulder and Denver went in search of steep rock and big numbers. They picked off two dozen lines at The Industrial Wall and the crags located above TIW proper. Colin Lantz, Steve LaPorta, Scott Fry and several others added most of the routes. Many climbers in the front range drooled over the photgraph of Colin Lantz on TGV, a route that overhung by 30 degrees, at least. Some of the most difficult climbing to be had close to Boulder can be found here, including at least two lines at 5.13d/14a. Fortunately for all of us gumbies, a few more moderate lines were established as well, although very little can be found below 5.12 on the main wall. The crags above hold several lines in the 5.10 and 5.11 range. Getting to them requires scrambling to the right round the wall and close to the rail road tracks. A little more exposed scrambling leads up over TIW and into these crags. The rock on TIW is a bit atypical of Mickey Mouse in general since the overhanging lines have kicked up a few good pocketed routes and a lot less of the sharp edges or crack systems typical of the rest of the wall. TIW faces due South and holds good sun for most of the day, however, since it is situated deep in the canyon, it can get chilly in the evenings when the sun is behind Eldorado mountain. If you make the hump up to Mickey Mouse and you are looking for a little bear, then TIW is an excellent option. And if you are just looking for bear close to Boulder, you would be hard pressed to find anything better than TIW.
Getting There
The Industrial Wall is truly just the Southern tip of the Mickey Mouse Wall. As you hike up toward MMW, the overhanging wall on the right is The Industrial Wall.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Industrial Wall:
Just up from the tracks is a very steep arete problem (route #1, Tunnel Vision), two routes left is Soul Train. The climbing starts off on a bulge that traverses left for a bolt or two and then heads largely straight up toward the severely overhanging start of TGV. One of the moderate lines at TIW, Soul Train sports some interesting pockets and huecos, edges, and layaways. The climbing seemed to hang in with very continuous 5.11+ moves unti...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Unfortunately this cliff is subject to closures which make it very difficult to climb here when it would be prime--early spring. Also dogs are not allowed here. Finally a prudent attitude towards using the tunnels is highly recommended. It's only a matter of time before a serious accident happens.
After over 20 years of humping these tunnels I have yet to hear of a single accident. It usually does not require advanced thinking to be cautious in a long, dark train tunnel.
Two things. As of right now, it appears that there is some work being done on the rails. As a result, there are a lot of Railroad Employees driving around the tracks doing various important things. These guys do not appreciate the site of a few climbers tramping around their "Private Property", and they will let you know it. It is advisable to avoid weekdays along the tracks for the time being lest we worsen the already poor access to this wonderfull climbing area. Also, there is an incredible amount of poison ivy at the base of the crag. This wouldn't be that big a deal except that there isn't a trail through it because what trail there was is grown over with weeds. My point is, that it might be wise to wear long pants and shoes for the hike.
A couple of years ago, a friend and I attempted to avoid the train tracks altogether by doing a cross country approach east of the tracks.This ended up being fairly grueling - lots of hiking.
But the hike was only the beginning. The real difficulty came when we inadvertently entered private property that was patrolled by three HUGE Irish Wolfhounds. These dogs were chest high and non-appreciative regarding our accidental trespass - they backed us right off the property and I felt very fortunate not to be eaten.
I'll take my chances with the trains and railroad employees, thank you.
It is important to be discrete when accessing the Wild West/West Bank or Mickey Mouse from the Plainview area. First, don't park at the Plainview railroad crossing. This is because it is a lot more obvious to sensitive residents that you are in the area and painfully obvious that you are walking on the tracks. It is much better to park a couple of hundred yards below the crossing on the last left hand switchback and walk due west through the Open Space to access the tracks beyond the maintenance yard and out of sight. It's also less obvious that you're climbing as a lot of people come to this area to walk their dogs along the roadway, etc.
Second, don't walk through the tunnel to get to the West Bank, Ridge One, etc. A well marked trail leads around the tunnel and it only takes about five minutes more than walking through the tunnel. This track has a lot more traffic than in years past with sometimes several trains per hour. There have been a lot of problems here before, so keep a low profile.
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