The rock at Mickey is clandestine in a sense. It sees very little traffic since the approach is so long, but the area gives an almost "mystical" aura, to quote my friend Dave Simmons.
Getting There
To reach Mickey Mouse Wall, take the road to Eldo, but right before you get into the town, turn L. on a paved road up to a small parking lot. The access Rd. continues from here, but you must hike along this rd to an indistinctive trail that crosses a meadow, and follows the stream up to the RR tracks. Hike the talus field to the towers. A better desc. is in order here, but this is a place that is best found with someone who has already been there.
Seasonal Closures
Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. More Info
A long (120') pitch of fantastic jamming with great rests and many thoughtful sequences. The crux is moving into and past a wide section, but zero thrutching is required.P1: Do the first pitch of Lifestream (10d). Scramble up onto the highest tier of ledges and then move the belay all the way to the right end of this ledge.P2: Beautiful climbing that protects well with small wires; a big cam is very useful for the crux. Belay a few...[more]
The standard rap route on this rock is in bad shape. Rotten sling nests at the raps that are still there. The second rap is completely missing. You will end up about 25 feet short of the third rap with a standard 50m rope. Needs many long slings for repair. Take a long rope or plan to spend some extra time rigging an anchor to belay down to the third rap. This was the condition on 26 Aug 01.
As of 10/20/02 the rap stations are in excellent shape. One two rope rap from several new looking slings with rap rings to a shorter (one rope fine) rap off a huge tree on a ledge with more good looking slings. Walk off to the left (as you look at the wall).
My partner and I replaced the topmost slings on the rap route. I have the old ones in a plastic grocery bag that is nearly stuffed full. We did not replace the second rap anchor (only needed if you have one rope - just swing right) which definitely needs it but we were out of webbing.
From the amount of slings, ropes, and shite that we pulled down it is safe to guess that this has not been done for a while. It would make much more sense to put in a couple of rap bolts because they are certainly less noticable and safer than the clump of webbing we replaced. I guess that is the way it has to be since the Flatiron Bolting Ban ... they should change it to create a committee like the rest of Eldo.
The trail along the base of the cliff is covered in THICK Poison Ivy right now. Way worse than I've ever seen in the Black Canyon. Best to approach via the boulderfield that parallels the cliff.
Is it ok again to approach [Mickey Mouse] along the tracks from the south? We approached from the parking area outside of [Eldo] (past the yoga studio) and man! That was a long hike (yes, I am a wimp). We had heard that hiking along the tracks from the south was now considered a Very Bad thing to do. Is this true? Thanks...
Yes AC, the tracks were being repaired earlier this year making access from the south more cumbersome. The work is done and the raptor closure is over!!
We wanted to walk in on the tracks today, but there are still a lot of work crews up there and train supervisor types hanging around. I don't know if that approach will be an option for while.
We approched via the tracks yesterday with no problem. The only downside is you can't hear the trains from very far away and some of those tunnels are pretty narrow!!!
FYI - we approached from [Plainview] and got stuck waiting for a train that was waiting on another train...while waiting, we chatted with one of the conductors who suggested we be very careful to not get caught. Apparently not only do you get ticketed now , but since 9/11 you will probably be charged with 'threat to homeland security (Amtrak uses those lines and it has something to do with public transportation, etc...)'
Wow! What a great place. It took us about 1.5 hours to hike from our car to the base of Lifestream yesterday. That includes some extra time hiking over a ridge and through a meadow after taking a wrong turn. I didn't think the hike was much worse than the one from the Twin Owls trailhead to Sundance. The hike was definitely worth it because we had the whole cliff to ourselves.
Hey Dave, How was the poison ivy out there? Haven't been up there this summer, but last summer it was head high, must even be worse now...or has it started to die back? Russ Holcomb
By Carissa Aoki From: Fort Collins, CO Aug 30, 2004
Yes, poison ivy is rampant as of this past weekend. Also, just a note about the trains. The freight trains are okay, because they honk their horns a lot, are pretty noisy, and don't go very fast. The Amtrak trains, on the other hand, don't honk at all, are seemingly silent, and go very fast! We did the approach via the 4 tunnels from Plainview Road. It was easy to avoid the freight trains, but we practically got run over by an Amtrak that we didn't hear coming until it was practically on top of us. (We were in a short tunnel, and didn't hear it when we entered the tunnel - by the time we were running to exit the tunnel, the train was already right behind us.)
But, that said, how great to climb on such wonderful rock on a sunny Sunday with no crowds!
Umm, help. Mickey Mouse Wall will soon be closed. Permanently.
It is owned by Boulder. Under the proposed new OSMP Visitor Plan, a number of local crags will be shut down forever. Mickey Mouse is the largest. Others include Continental Crag (up above Peanuts), Upper Peanuts Wall, The Sacred Cliffs.
Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks have presented this proposal to Boulder City Council. Boulder City Council will discuss this on Tuesday 14th December.
Please phone or email the Boulder City Council Members (who love to hear from people about issues like this) that this is unacceptable.
Show up this Tuesday, Dec 14th at 6:00pm at Council Chambers (Broadway and Canyon). Bring a friend, or two, or eight. Let's pack the room.
If in their great wisdom the City of Boulder closes MMW to the few rockclimbers that venture up there each month I'll file with the OSMP a "notification to kiss my Ass..."
Tod Anderson refered to "the Mickey Mouse closure" under the "Ridge I" page. Does that mean that the proposal was accepted? Is Mickey Mouse Wall legally open at this point?
Another approach alternative: From the book: "From Hwy 170, turn left at the paved road and continue up to a locked gate. Hike on the road..."
our version, continued: ...then make a bad decision, bearing left on said road instead of right, necessitating a bushwhack (read: "hacking through bushes") up over the ridge. Trend south, slightly descending into the valley, and attempt to take a faint game trail which ends up going through a fence that would take you onto posted private property. Alternatively, continue steep bushwhack up to railroad tracks, negotiating veritable lakes of poison ivy and forests of young willows along the way, finally arriving 75 feet above the train bridge. Descend the 75 feet and cross the tracks. Negotiate more poison ivy and climb the loose talus and boulder field. It is now 10:30 a.m. 'Perversion' is still a ways up. Do not be daunted. It's worth the effort. Should've taken a right at the fork in the road."
Mickey Mouse Wall
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
RSS Feed
