Joseph Crotty about to start into the lower diffic...
Description
Head-pointed over three days in late May and early June 2009 and then led all gear placed on lead. Possibly a three star route, but some suspect holds in the first half detract from the overall movement and stellar upper crux. Combination of creative body work, mental stamina, semi technical foot work and a dash of power add up to good climbing.
Climb an easy slab into the right facing dihedral. Place a few good technical cams and grapple with the tenuous and awkward lower crux. Mid crux some dubious gear can be placed. Botching the exit sequence into the rest guarantees carnage. You will not die, but it will not be pretty. (.11c R)
From a balance rest sew up the crack with medium stoppers. Fire to the arête and up onto the crux face. Finish on the sparsely protected face/arête just left of the last third of Star Wars second pitch. JIT (Just-In-Time) gear appears on the face if you search for it.
Originally TR'ed by Mark Tarrant.
Location
Lower Peanuts between Forbidden Planet and pitch two of Star Wars. Start 50' left and 50' below the second pitch of Star Wars from a comfortable ledge below the obvious right facing dihedral. The dihedral peters out onto the arête and then face. Finish on the face/arête just to the left of the last third of Star Wars second pitch. Solid tree for anchor. Walk off uphill a bit to the Lower Peanuts/Upper Peanuts saddle.
Protection
SR with an emphasis on technical cams and medium wires.
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