To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Again, expect big exposure while approaching, climbing and even belaying this route. This is a pitch for the "been there done that" 5.12 leader. Make sure you and your partner can communicate due to the noise.
Location
Start as for the 5th pitch of the Naked Edge. At the top of the ramp, bust up and left towards the obvious ring bolts. Pimpy thin moves will end up with runout, but reasonable climbing (#3 Camalot) to the top.
This route and Wingless Victory can both be approached by rapping from the top of the Naked Edge. Throw your rope out and backclip as you rap to the belay. Have fun!
Protection
7 bolts and a #2 Camalot or #3 Friend (for up top) is required. The belays are the same as the 5th pitch of the Naked Edge.
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