To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Another in a long line of great Frenchy-named routes in Eldo. I'm a bit hesitant to post this route, since I haven't actually climbed the whole thing, but it's pretty cool, and anyone with more knowledge of the whole route can feel free to add a comment. Le Void starts off the upper ramp, about 30' right of The Serpent, and maybe 100' left of upper T2. To find the climb, look for a pair of left-leaning, left-facing dihedrals that lead up about 40' to a big, overhanging, downward-pointed flake. Start in either corner, the left is 9+, the right is apparently 11b (although I haven't been on it yet). The left corner is fun and well-protected, and makes a good, short pitch if you're not up for continuing the route. Both corners merge on a ledge with rappel slings maybe 40' up. From here, the route gets much harder, as it ascends the overhanging flake. For the first bit you can use cracks on both sides of the flake, as well as stem. The crux (11d) comes when you have to commit to the right side of the flake. A series of thin, powerful, lie-backing moves culminate in a lunge (at least for me) to a much better hold. From here, the pitch is much easier, and again ends at a small stance with rappel slings. This is as far as I have ever gone on this route, but according to Rossiter, it continues up though a roof with a thin crack (11d/12a), and then merges with T2 to get to the top of the wall. If anyone has beta about this part, I'd love to hear it. This route makes a great diversion if you have a lay-over on the upper ramp between two other climbs and have some extra time. It is possible to do just the first, 9+ section, or the 11d flake section and lower off for a quick single pitch.
Protection
This route is well-protected, at least the parts that I have done. A 5.9 leader might want a #2 or #3 Camalot for the first corner, but other than that only small gear (wires, TCUs, and cams to 2", maybe with double in the TCUs) are needed for the 11d flake section.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO May 16, 2009 rating: 5.11+
Pitch 2 is very cool and unfortunately too short. The second pitch is very intimidating, because the gear is blind where you need it most. It was hard to "sack up" and go for it not knowing how good the gear was. Solid 11+.
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