The Narrow Gate 

FA:  Brand Bond and Eric Johnson, 1998 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 163 page views Submitted By: Joseph P. Crotty on Jul 24, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The Narrow Gate location.

Description 

Cleaned on rappel prior to FA. Climb the first pitch of The Shield and belay. Locate the large, ominous roof directly overhead and notice that the lower part of it continues out to the left horizontally. Climb up 30' or so trending slightly left and then climb out the roof with no gear through and obvious weakness and turn the crux lip. .10b X

Place some gear just after the lip turn and head up and left on the 5.9 slab and belay further up on the ramp. A hard to find micro cam placement eases the tension a bit near the end of the slab.

Location 

Descend the north-facing slab from the summit and then romp down a bit of talus and come back around to the base of Lower Peanuts.

Protection 

SR. Small tech cams.