This is the short, sport route to the right of Horangutan. It starts up the first fifteen or twenty feet of Spoof, then uses some underclings to reach the first of two bolts and a cruxy move getting to two great pockets, followed by turning the lip with slopers. The rating in the Rossiter guidebook is .12d, but it felt way easier than, for example, the Monument, which I couldn't even do.
Location
Just to the right of the Monument cave, starts up Spoof.
Protection
Two bolts to a two-bolt anchor. There are a couple ancient pins on the Spoof part; they aren't worth clipping, though
Amputee Love is a toprope near the route described and is much harder on oh-so-slippery stone. It does not start on Spoof. The bolted sport route described here is Free Speech 5.12a.
The Whale's Tail
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