Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Shirt Tail Peak
Show routes:
Select route...
Cro-Magnon 
Destruction 
Double Life 
Emperor's New Shoes, The 
Future Primitive 
Gambit 
Ginseng Junkie 
Giuoco Piano Direct 
King Of Pain 
Missing Link 
Moriarty's Mistake 
Mountaineer's Route 
Mrs. Clean Gets Down 
Serrated Jam Crack 
Throne, The 
Tiger Balm Arete 
Windlass or 'The Tail' 

The Throne 

5.11b/c

   

FA: Mike Clinton & Bill Demaillie, 1988
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.11b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 248 page views

Submitted By: Paul Stoner on Mar 16, 2007


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Jason Haas follows 'The Throne' (11b/c)on Shirt Ta...


Description 

This is the bolted line on the same face that Cro-Magnon and Serrated Jam Crack are located. I really liked this climb, lots of good hard face climbing with some nice exposure towards the end. The route starts on the face just right of the start to Cro-Magnon and Serrated Jam Crack. Some hard moves need to be passed before the first bolt, then at which point, make the crux moves out left to join Cro-Magnon right before its crux. The Throne continues to move up and left via some more 11ish face moves to the arete with bolts for protection. Then just run it out with easier climbing to an anchor with a bolt and two pins.


Location 

To reach the base of this route, take the same 1st pitch as Cro-Magnon or Serrated Jam Crack. Another option is to climb P1 of Gambit, and traverse right along the ledge and scramble up to the base of the route. You can do two rappels to get back to the ground, or pull left around the arete at the top and continue up with Gambit.


Protection 

There's 5 bolts leading to the anchor on this route. Getting to the first bolt can be protected with a micro stopper (I used a # 5) and between the 1st and 2nd you can get the same pro in that you would for the crux of Cro-Magnon (#0.5 Camalot for me).



Add Photo Photos of The Throne
Jason Haas sets up for the reachy crux of 'The Throne' (11b/c) on Shirt Tail Peak in Eldo. Photo by Tony Bubb, 5/08.

Jason Haas sets up for the reachy crux of 'The Thr...


Add Comment Comments on The Throne
Show which comments
By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.11c

Awesome pitch. Really good climbing and good position. The nut before the crux bolt was ~#4 BD stopper and was bomb-proof I used a small Alien below that and a blue Alien between the last and second to last bolts. Save for that and QDs, you don't need a rack to speak of.
Hard to flash but not terrible moves for average folks. HOWEVER, this would be very hard for short folks to do at all.

The rap-anchor was partially refurbished 5/08. The rap to ledge is 100' to 110' or so, not 150' as stated in the Rossiter book. ! 70M makes it easily, I SUSPECT that a 60M might too.

Regardless, you can finish to the summit by continuing 6 meters past the rap anchor to join Gambit at the belay ledge above.