A worthy route. It does not merit a serious rating if your nutcraft is good.
Start as for Peanuts. Where that route cuts left at the overhang, head straight up the shallow dihedral/finger crack above. A green Alien in a placement below a pin adds to the comfort level. Clip a bolt and hoist yourself into a second dihedral/groove with another bolt at its top. More climbing up and left, then back right to clip the anchor.
Did this recently and thought it was a great route, and relatively well protected too. This really is THE line started by Peanuts, and it seems as if Peanuts should be considered a variation to this route, not vice-versa. Nuts and Aliens and the fixed gear present can sew it up about as well as your standard Eldo route; and all of the hard moves have fixed pro right where you need it.
'S' only in the sense that it could be dangerous if gear blows. The piton looks suspect and the gear below it (green alien in the description above... I got a stopper which frees up the hold) is in a somewhat hollowish sounding flake. Steeper and pumpier than it looks.
By Bob Rotert From: Broomfield, Co Oct 9, 2005 rating: 5.11b
A worthy route and one of my favorite routes on Peanuts. Good climbing with a steep and pumpy crux. Doing this and linking it with Forbidden Planet on upper wall of Lower Peanuts makes for good outing on Lower Peanuts.
Lower Peanuts
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