this having to choose a comment different from any...
Description
It's hard to miss this route when walking up to Rincon from the Cirque of Cracks on the West Ridge. Located on the prow just left of the Pool Of Blood dihedral is The Formula. The equation is this: a burly one move wonder over the roof into the dihedral + stemming to the upper roof + turning it onto the slab = an exciting pump. The pin at the start is a bit flexy, but its possible to place a #2 Rock just above it.... Rap off of slings around a small tree. I think the route is worthy of a new bolt anchor over the upper roof!
Addendum: there is a new bolt anchor.
Protection
Sm/med nuts, 0.75"-.4" cams, 3.5" piece (equipped with 2 pins). Rap slings on high tree (junk!).
By Bob D'Antonio From: Superior, CO Oct 29, 2001 rating: 5.12-
Three stars for this is somewhat generous. It is a one move wonder with the crux at the start. Not on par with "Sidewall", "Pony Express" or the other classic dihedrals on the West Ridge. Seems 12a to me.
The 2-3 move boulder problem seemed as hard or harder than wendego, apple strudel, or the contest. An interesting finish protected by old knifeblades, keeps you on your toes. The anchor, slings off two small trees, should be replaced.
I agree with Chris here. The opening sequence is easily as hard or harder than most other 5.12a's in Eldo. It feels much harder than 5.11+, so it's probably either stout 12a or even 12b. Perhaps height-dependent?
The pin holds body weight, and you can back it up.
Powerful, technical crux down low, fun stemming up high. Some questionable rock in a few places, mostly on the upper roof. Thanks for installing the bolted anchor!
West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony Express
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