Reaper 

FA:  Chris Taylor w/ Heath Sivak New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 30 feet Views: 169 page views Submitted By: CHRIS TAYLOR on Feb 18, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This climb is a variation of the final pitch of the route 'RUPER'.

It starts about 20 ft. before entering the leftward traverse under the roof w/ the old pins. From the bottom of the short, clean, left-facing dihedral (just before the traverse) climb out left onto a steep, lichen-covered wall, using cool hueco features, for about 20-25 ft. There is a shallow, seam-like, crack system along the way that will take a few camming devices. After you come to a 2 inch horizontal cam placement, climb straight up to join the very end of the Ruper traverse. You can also continue climbing straight left to join the upper part of 'ALICE'

Another great variation on 'RUPER' starts from the upper ramp and about 10ft. right of the original 4th pitch start. Climb a very nice looking, left-facing dihedral for about 30ft. and traverse left to join the rest of RUPER pitch 4. (5.9-, 3 stars)-This is the first 30ft. of a Briggs/Levin route called 'Shasta'.

These variations are great if you have done Ruper before and want to spice it up a little.

Protection 

Red Alien, #2 Camalot/ (standard rack for variation off of upper ramp).