This route is best done after summiting Shirt Tail Peak via one of the other routes on the south face.
From the top of the second (of three) rappels on the descent (the more eastern rappels that start in the gully, yes there are 2 sets of rappels), look climber's right to locate a clean wall with a small roof/bulge about 20' up and 2 short parallel cracks above the roof/bulge. The route starts about 10 feet right of an obvious, moderate, hand crack that angles slightly left. Begin on a ledge just left of a large pine tree and ascend easy rock for 10 feet. Work your way up the rest of the face before entering the roof/bulge(tricky gear). Proceed through the roof/bulge(crux)(tricky gear) to a good stance. Make a few more nice moves through the parallel cracks for another 10 feet to a good ledge. Continue up and left to the top of the rappels, or keep climbing up fun, easy rock to the summit.
Although this route may seem like more trouble than it's worth, it is a fun climb on good stone in a unique setting.
Some may feel that the route deserves an "S" or "PG-13" rating.
Location
This route is on the west face, above and left of "King of Pain" and "Mrs. Clean Gets Down", just left of a large pine tree on a ledge.
Protection
Standard rack (3 or 3.5 inch cam, 00 Metolius cam useful).
Shirt Tail Peak
RSS Feed
