BETA PHOTO: Routes on the right side of the Pony Express area....
Description
This route is by no means particularly great, but if the crowds in the Pony Express area are to heavy, this one might be an OK filler. The route is one pitch long with a 60 meter rope, but be warned and be careful at the top as it has a TON of loose rock on the belay ledge, and the downclimb to the anchors of Mesca-line will have your balance in practice. Start the route about 30 yards to the right of Mesca-line at a large block and from there go up about 50 feet in dirty, lichenous rock to an obvious undercling. Move left through the underclingand straight up the crack to the belay ledge. There is also another variation that goes up a crack more to the left at I guess 5.8.
Protection
Standard rack: nuts and cams and a few long slings are helpful.
I thought this climb was mediocre compared to the adjacent Sister Morphine. The rock is strange and suspect the whole way. The route starts left switches right, then back left. I suspect the FA party intended to follow the direct line up the right hand crack system, but was unable to. The left hand crack system (5.8 variation) makes a lot more sense. After the undercling left at the roof, it's easy to keep traversing left and step down a bit to the Mescaline anchors. The leader can lower from there to the ground with a 60m rope.
This thing looks pretty bad from the ground and doesn't climb much better. I led this yesterday and I took the right variation (the 5.9 way, I guess). There's a fair amount of dubious rock and not many opportunities to get good gear.A block came down towards the top (right before the undercling traverse left): I used it for a handhold and it felt reasonably solid, but it came down when I stepped on it. I wouldn't recommend this to a leader at her limit.
A better option than traversing left under the small roof is to continue directly up the right-facing corner and crack. It seems kind of strange the FA went left-- this "direct finish" is the best part of the pitch.
West Ridge - Pony Express to Long John
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