To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
From the early 70s, note EBs, hexes, stoppers and ...
Description
This often over looked route has a pretty good first pitch but the second pitch is a little loose and dirty.
P1: Make a committing move right off the ground and clip a good pin. The crux is trying to get past this pin and it is very height dependent. If your about 6' tall, 11c is probably accurate, taller and it is easier, shorter and it's probably 5.12. Continue up an easier, left-facing dihedral to a broken ledge and belay.
P2: Climb straight up from the ledge following a broken up crack system that angles slightly left. This pitch is a little runout, but the climbing isn't very difficult, maybe 10a. Belay on the ledge at the start of Super Slab.
Location
This route starts right off the trail just left of Suparete. Look for a steep face/crack with a Lost Arrow pin in it.
Cool Larry, I think this picture was taken around that same time, might have been '74, I'll have to check the date on my slide. Chuck Tolton and I think Mark Jansen were there that day, along with Gary. I'm not sure who the belayer is.
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