Loose Lucy 

FA:  Steve Levin & Mike Munger, October 2007 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 100 feet Views: 157 page views Submitted By: Steve Levin on Oct 20, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This tackles the creaky 20-foot roof between Mickey Mouse Die-Rect and Daydream. Observant climbers will have noted a piece of tat (now gone) at a fixed pin low down on the roof that has been there for years and years.

Hike past Mr. Natural to wooden steps. Begin at the top of the steps.
Climb an easy open book up the slab to a broken ledge. Start out the roof at a short, left-facing corner. Crank to a fixed pin, undercling to huge holds atop a flake, then power to buckets. Now pull up and over the lip. Continue up and left to the Daydream rappel.

Our ground-up attempt quickly degenerated into an aidfest as we jettisoned loose rock and scared ourselves silly. The loose rock is (mostly) gone, but still be aware of what you pull on. Big holds, big moves and a crux gaining the lip.

Location 

The Lower West Face of Redgarden Wall.

Rappel from a threaded block up and left on the upper wall, above the route Daydream.

Protection 

A few wires, small cams to 3.5".