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West Ridge - Long John to Verschneidung
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Next to Nearly 
Rictus 
Rock For Climbing Routes To 
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The Gibbet 

5.11-

   

FA: Steve Levin & Aaron Lucas, September 2007
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 164 page views

Submitted By: Steve Levin on Sep 25, 2007


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Description 

Climb shattered but easy rock to the base of a 6-foot roof with a finger crack out it. Pull the roof to a horn at the lip (crux), then follow the crack as it diagonals right past a small tree to a wad of slings on a horn (an old rap anchor used by climbers descending slabs east from Long John Wall).

Led ground-up.


Location 

This route is located on the south face of Long John Wall tower, right of and below Weevil's Walk and The Wizard. It can be approached from the top of Washington Irving, or by climbing slabs west of the Kloof Alcove.


Protection 

Wires to 2". Rappel 75 feet from the wad 'o slings back to the slabs.