West Buttress 

Yeah, but then you miss out on that classic Eldo feeling of "where and how the hell do I traverse now, and then what do I do for pro afterwards, and how long do I have until my feet slip?", followed (usually_) by that wonderful feeling of elation (e.g. Rosy, Yellow Spur, Unsaid, Northcutt Start, Over the Hill, etc. etc. ad nauseum). :)Seriously, I've led this pitch twice, though, and the second time with the intent of going straight up, and I just couldn't figure out how to get into the crack, because it kind of dead-ends and then starts up again. The line seems to naturally force you left. The direct start you mention sounds really interesting--I would have thought thered be groundfall potential above the bolt.

I should note that the climbing after the crux is a bit runout and still vertical, though substantially easier. The bolt on the "bulging wall" described at the the start of the first pitch is BELOW the West Buttress route, not on it (this confused someone who read the description)--I mentioned it to help locate the start of the route.

Escalar - Going straight up after the initial crux makes for an even better pitch. It might be .10a/b or so. It is well protected--better protected than going off to the left. It is also nice to do the "direct start", starting under the initial traverse at the bolt. It is not as hard as it looks especially if you are tall, but it does involve a long reach--solid 5.10. Combining these variations makes a superb, direct line up a beautiful wall.

Another great variation for the 3rd pitch is to take the right side roof, which is actually West Face route. I thought is was the better one of the three choices, all of which end up in the same place. But a word of warning, just when you start up into the roof, theres a horn sticking out that is a must to make the move... it EXTREMELY lose and sounds like its about to snap. Other then that, its an awesome pitch!

There's also a variation to the second pitch that is pretty fun. Climb up, clip the bolt and traverse on thin holds out right to the arete (awkward/a little airy/scary) then climb up the face. It's about .8+, so it's a bit easier than the normal route. It's also a little more interesting. Quick note on the pins on the first pitch. One of them is missing as of this fall. I think it was the lower one but I could be wrong. It is possible to back up the pin with gear however.

after the traverse after the crux be prepared to get creative with gear (i placed nothing bigger than a red alien on the first pitch)....anyways the climbing is easy but the path of least resistance does require thought, as the easiest way wanders a bit

I climbed this on 7/4 and both pins are still at the crux on the first pitch. An old ring pin is at the end of the hand traverse (about a foot above the holds in the start of the crack ) and the other one is a LA at your waist for the crux move. it is easy to place a back-up piece near the first pin. You do not need much gear for any of the pitches and emphasize on smaller stuff. Also a #4 cam is nice before you clip the bolt on the OW pitch.casey bernal

The crux is harder than anything on Hair City. The offwidth on the second pitch is quite a wake-up call too, when you realize you can't remember how to climb OW's any more. Liebacking past it may be the easiest way, but is this cheating?

Beta on the 5.10 variation:

There are two ways that I know of to get into the the crack above the tricky 5.9 crux.

1) (hard way) grab those huge juggs to the right after the 5.9 crux, work your feet up in the thin seem---lock off, and grab a really shitty hold in the crack. you now have really shitty hands and no feet to get the rest position.

2) (easier, less obvious way) instead of grabing the juggs to the right, step left a foot or two (or three??) and balance your way up to the crack with better feet.

Re/the "5.10" variation: I've now climbed it--the "hard way" that Jay mentions is indeed very hard, but more to the point, quite contrived. It is much, much easier to step left first, and then right back into the crack. In fact, IMO neither this easier way or the crack above is nearly as hard as the "5.9" move by the intial fixed pins.

I climbed this with a guy who has redpointed 5.14a, and even he resorted to stepping left, then back right (the crack above this has superb climbing with great gear, btw). Forcing it straight up from the pin seems a lot harder than mid 5.10 to me.

Agree with Jay and Charles regarding the step left at the beginning of the (10a) variation on P1. I used it, as it offered more leverage for the crank up and thru. Easier (10a) move though than say...the crux of Blind Faith. IMO this climb favors those high on the ape index, especially at that move, as well as the one down below in the lower crack.The (9) move at the bolt on P2 into the chimney is pretty wild...I stepped high with the left foot and layed that bitch back. Not a gimme layback either...kinda flared out and down sloping rock, so I stemmed way out with the right foot, and then shifted my left side & inserted the left leg in the off-width. One of the weirdest moves I've done in awhile. Once in the OW, work over to a nice chockstone & shimmey up 8' to the belay ledge. Hellova fun climb...lots of variety.

Another way to do the start of the 10a direct: Right foot to a small put positive hold up and left from the pin. Right hand to a good sidepull in the crack, just above the brass nut/small stopper you should have placed. Left foot up to big hold. Rock ontol left foot. You can climb much higher on this variation than the beta photo indicates before escaping left to join the regular route. Where you escape left depends on how far you are willing to run it out on 5.8 or so climbing.

Sooooo good!!!!!

5.6 traverses can be so hairy when they are run out and the wind is ripping! I headed straight up and clipped the 2 pins on hair city and then moved left which is a great way to go if you are a chicken. The 5.9 offwidth/chimney pitch was sweet, no offwidth technique needed if you lieback. P2 is great for rebirth therapy.

Cool. Instead of traversing left at the second piton I went straight up the crack(following chalk marks) and onto the face(5.10). Stout and pumpy, yet fun and a bit heady. The gear is there, but one must be a little creative in placing it. Crimp/layback the flake on the second pitch, chicken wing the chimney.

Traversing left at the piton is a bit confusing, hence the crack above. Well worth doing.

After 4 times on the route, I still think the P1 crux is one of the hardest in Eldo! Delicate feet. Anyway, my point is really that, on P3, there are 3 ways to go, right after the rotten band. Far left is the funky 5.7 thing, to the far right is a loose committing 5.8+ (as was already mentioned), but I recommend the middle option: straight up the middle crack above you. 5.9. A great stopper placement right before the moves over the top should give some encouragement...after tiptoeing through that rotten, crappy red band. (NOTE--There are a couple of VERY loose blocks in that but, then again, this IS Eldo, God love her!). Have fun!

The chock stone on pitch 2 is gone. Enjoy.

The chockstone on P2 was on vacation at a trundling party in the Tien Shan. It has now resituated itself in the chimney.

Fun route, the beginning traverse is a bit hairy but protects well. A bolt at the chimney eases the fact that your forgot to bring really big gear once again...

We finished by stepping down and left to the last pitch of Outer Space (inobvious as a first-timer on this route, but highly recommended).

This is a superb climb, and IMHO one of the finest 9s in Eldo. If you need exposure fast, this is the route for you. Two moves off the trail, and you have much exposure. Combining P1 and P2 makes for one hell of a good pitch with a little bit of everything. I am 5'8" and felt the crux at the second pin on P1 to be quite tricky, the off-width section was wild. I'm a fan of OWs, so I went for it using off-width technique, which did not last long before I figured out that there is a little trick to keep everything at 5.9-. I think that if you go with pure OW on this section, you will get a little more than 5.9.

What a great way to finish off the day. We did the 10b/c crack that continues straight up past the pins through the thin crack. Never even realized that the route went left at the second pin. It did feel harder than 9+ so it makes sense. The squeeze chimney was a little intense... they aren't my favorite. The simple top out pitch was cool, too.

8/9/07 was a fun send. Cops blocked off the road to Eldo for a race- ran for 20min. w/ light rack + rope. Oh and a case of PBRs- which we deposited @ Kev's and Bodey's place. Started climbing @ ? 8:45pm.
Rack I lead on 1st pitch in order: -Pin; -Pin; -#5 RP (BD); skipped bolt anchor- did clip inset piton-w/ double length runner. After a pigeon flew out the crack right in my face. - Bolt; to the 2 bolt anchor belay.
Now it's dark.
2nd pitch: -piton @ 5.7 move, 5 pigeons chillin' right w/ that pin, had a quick chat w/ them and decided to back pin up w/ that #5 RP I used earlier in case birds freak out. Top out. Done dark style.

This was the second route I ever climbed, on the first day I ever climbed. This was back in '67 when we had no harnesses or belay devices--it was quite an adventure. Been hooked and climbing ever since.

I thought that this was the worst "good" route I've climbed in Eldo.

I.M.O. There is nothing tricky about getting into the 5.10 crack above the crux on P1. It is actually the obvious natural line and climbs beautifully with good gear. I have never done the supposed 5.6s traverse left after the 5.9 crux, but why would you want to miss this great continuation of the crack. It isn't any harder than the sandbag 5.9 crux at the pin.
The direct start with the bolt is really great, if you don't mind the spice factor.