This route starts out above a cut off stump and is 5.8 for the first half, this section is R and takes small RPs behind a flake that may expand. Head for a ledge with a small bush. The second section goes right of the bush. I ended up going right and clipping a pin on Easter Island, then going right to clip a bolt and back cleaned the pin. Now, head straight up to the notch in the roof; this is the 5.10 section. Find a pin and some gear and power through the roof. The final 20 feet are on lichen-covered 5.6 find your own way up the lichen.
Rossiter's book says this is a two pitch route, but it sure is fun in one pitch. The book says to belay at the tree after the 5.8 where you will find a pin.
Location
This route is at the far northeast end of Lower Peanuts. Find the cut off stump and the notch in the roof up above.
Protection
The route uses a standard rack, no big gear. Focus on the #1 BD cam and below, take your small nuts. The anchor I had was suspect, so I had to use long runners to use more than one loose block.
Lower Peanuts
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