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Wind Tower - S Face
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The Uplift 

5.10d X

   

FA: Duncan Ferguson and John Searls, 1974
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Views: 152 page views

Submitted By: Joshua Merriam on Jun 18, 2007


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Glad to be past the insecure part.


Description 

Climb under a low roof with a piton, and up a clean, right-leaning, left-facing ramp with a seam in the back, then over a second overlap. Angle right on easier terrain to a higher, easy roof with a great jam (Futile Laments), and then follow the arete where the south face joins the west face to the large ledge.


Location 

The Uplift climbs directly under the arete where the west and south faces of the Wind Tower meet.


Protection 

A piton in the first roof, tiny TCUs, small nuts, beaks and camhooks above, and shallow but passable #0.5 Camalot out right gets you through the crux.

A ground fall is possible even if the gear holds. Above the overlap, the difficulty eases and many bomber placements ease the mind.



Add Photo Photos of The Uplift
Starting up the slab.

Starting up the slab.

Clipping the pin under the roof.

Clipping the pin under the roof.


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By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2007

RE: [Tony Bubb]
> How much risk of groundfall was there from the crux?
> How hard did you think the climbing at the groundfall area was?

I felt the crux of the route was the low to mid section between the initial roof, and the second overlap. There are several pro options within that area, which I believed might hold a fall.

After the crux, but before fully establishing above the overlap, I could find no gear, however the moves are <5.9.

By CHRIS TAYLOR
Apr 13, 2008

I did this on a solo top-rope and it felt harder than 5.10+. After the first pin, I did not see any good gear options (maybe some ultra-micro stuff?) and I did see the #0.5 Camalot out right (shallow). The crux felt like the right-leaning, left-facing, shallow corner above the first roof.

This would be a very bold lead.

The link into Futile Laments was really great.