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Sheer Terror 

5.12c X

   
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FA: Skip Guerin, Chip Ruckgaber 1983
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 85 feet
Views: 515 page views

Submitted By: Hank Caylor on Apr 9, 2007


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Description 

Pull up into the roof's apex and crimp up and right to a left-angling, slopey ramp. This is the last chance to chicken out and avoid a really, really, bad fall (great climbing, though). Commit to the slopey ramp and find more hard climbing and similar commiting moves into the final dihedral, where more heinously great and commiting moves are to be found until the top is gratefully reached.

If Skip Guerin did this in '83, and Fire' climbing shoes didn't get imported to the U.S. until '84, it means Skip did this in EBs, and thus makes him the burliest human I know. That or he's the devil.


Location 

Sheer Terror starts in an obvious roof apex about 20'-30' down and to the right of the Scotch and Soda roof. They actually kinda look like roof twinsys.


Protection 

Clip 2 OLD pins and an OLD fixed stopper in the roof's apex. This tat will keep you from grounding for the route's technical crux. A crappy red Alien and all the RPs you own are what's left for pro for the next 60'-70'. A pin anchor is at the top.



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By Wayne Crill
Apr 10, 2007

He he he, Nice one Hank! Congrats bro-

W

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Apr 11, 2007

Nice job! I was walking out of the canyon on Monday about 6pm or so and saw you coming down. I guess I just missed the big show.

What ever happened to Skip G?

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Apr 13, 2007

Hank, Killer 2nd ascent. It really puts Skip's climbing talent into perspective given how long ago that was climbed ,the gear he was using, the rock shoes he was probably wearing and the crude mind altering substances he was on at the time of his lead. Let's also give credit to his equally fuked up belayer, Chip Rockgrabber.
Skip can usually be found partying up on the hill with college chics.