To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Going for it on Jules Verne. Photo: Bob Horan Coll...
Description
First of all, I have been reluctant to take credit for the FA, because it is such an obvious line (Derek probably soloed it onsight). I believe, after me, the pitch was later lead again by a talented local known for his huge whippers.
I led this in 2000 after inspection on rappel (a headpoint). This is a very good pitch and very serious in its upper half. Do the initial 1st pitch roof crux of JV but where that line arcs out left via undeclings, go straight up to another small roof. In these underclings, you can deposit good finger to thin hand size pro. Here will be the actual crux; an awkward and difficult mantle move out the right side of the roof. Once above the mantle, you will be standing in a black water streak. Climb about 10' to a small overlap on the left. Try to finagle some manky small wires, and then carefully tip-toe up a leaning closed out seam to a a couple other overlaps where more bad gear can be found. Go to the ledge. The section through the seam feature is in the 10+ range with another 10 section above. The 3rd pitch crux of JV won't feel so bad after doing this first.
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