To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
As the arch terminates onto the green headwall the climb switches from power underclings to crimps with poor feet and big moves. Fight up the face slightly right into a semi hueco. .11d S
Cast straight up the gorgeous face from the hueco culminating in heart throbbing moves just past a tinny sounding hold leaving you to "talk" to yourself. .10b/c X
Location
From the bottom of the Upper Ramp roughly 50' left of the start of Jules Verne find the sweeping right to left tapering brown half arch. Begin as for Green Willow Wall at the right edge of the half arch in a left facing dihedral and establish a stance on a large flake just before turning the roof of Green Willow Wall. Under cling the arch leftwards until it merges with a green face and climb up and slightly right to a large pseudo hueco. Climb straight up 30' from the hueco then veer slightly left and continue on to the belay at the end of the crux upper pitch of Jules Verne. Finish on Jules Verne or one 60m rap back to the Upper Ramp.
Protection
SR with double sets of smaller technical cams. Bring along a #3 Big Bro if you really want to create the illusion of pro at the hueco.
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