Ted Lanzano at the crux of Superfly. Photo by Cody...
Description
Not really a one move wonder, buuuttttt. It has a burly set up with one fat reach at mid-height, then stays hard 11 all the way to the top. This a great route for the climber that's got that, "Been there, done that, 12d, kinda attitude". Definitely unique.
If that's not good enough for ya, Chad Greedy has added a VERY sweet direct start to Superfly, tentatively called "Supah Dupah Fly", that kicks the whole thing to 13b or so....
Location
The more reasonable looking line just right of Iron Monkey. Begin up and right on top of some blocks (purple tiny TCU) and traverse in left on to powerful and overhanging terrain (great orange/yellow Aliens). Make an improbable reach for good crystal and move up and left into an obvious and steep layback system (freaky #3 Camalot) that gets you to the anchors.
Protection
This was an early Eldo horrow show done classic Skip style, with Christian Griffith and Chip Ruckgaber for partners. Today's modern cams-Aliens/TCUs have made this a much more reasonably protected outing. It can still, just, keep its R rating though, I think.
As a wimpy, bolt clipping, sport wanker, I found the gear on Superfly to be thin but very good and the pro was never more than 5 feet apart. The danger rating on this climb is very inflated. In my opinion, this route doesn't even deserve a PG 13 rating. So don't let the R rating keep you from trying this route. It's excellent, and very safe.
Pro is definitely more than 5 feet apart but generally pretty good where you need it. I think injury could only be the result of a freak accident on this route for a competent leader. Also, we would start left of the line and traverse in right - following obvious, chalked holds and good climbing before the biz - the way Skip is doing it in the photo.
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Left Hand Canyon, CO Jan 3, 2010
All right, I nixed the R rating. If the SHALLOW #3 Camalot blows, tell me where to send the flowers.
By Scott Bennett From: Superior, CO Jan 13, 2010 rating: 5.12d
Yeah, that #3 looks shady, fortunately there's a pretty good looking green Camalot a few inches below. Agreed that it shouldn't get an R, but you'd better nail every placement or else things could get dangerous in a hurry. -Scott
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