This thin crack starts about 20ft. right of Rincon. The crack opens up periodically just about right for gear placements. The crux is pulling over a small roof with a reachy finger jam and no really good feet. Continue up on a nice finger crack. To descend, traverse right to the tree and rap.
I [definitely] agree that this is easier than pitch one of Rincon (9+). Took a sizable whipper on Rincon,,, suppose I should have picked a more warmup like warmup to climb first! Clean fall though, just quite large...oops!
This is an excellent 1 pitch 5.10. Very fun technical moves. I led this one and felt it was easier that the p1 of Rincon, which I followed. Oh well, it is all good stuff. If you don't want detailed beta then skip the rest of this comment. You don't need any cams larger than a #3 Friend, and you really only need one of those. Otherwise nothing larger than a .75 Camalot. You will need a lot of smaller stuff, especially small nuts or RPs. For the section before the crux I had 3 small/tiny wires and a blue Alien, but at the crux you can hang off the finger lock and place an excellent cam above your head for the move. Sorry to spray beta but a first time 5.10 leader could get spooked and might end up testing the wire strength of the tiny nuts. Almost 3 stars if it was longer. Casey Bernal
Just a suggestion, but this route, Racoon Soup, and five-eight crack all share the same anchor- an eight foot tall tree, six inches in diameter. This 'anchor' sees a lot of use, especially of the TR variety which is particularly hard on anchors. The tree can be backed up with a #1 Camalot or two in the crack behind, or by placing some nuts above Raccoon Soup or Five-ten crack. But even with the backup (and it seems many people don't even do this), the tree is still taking the weight in the vast majority of TR situations. A better solution would be to use a gear TR anchor, then rap off the tree when finished... no one ever does this though.
So I was curious what people thought about the idea of a nice, beefy two-bolt anchor somewhere on the ledge system to serve as anchor for these three climbs. Not to mention that this would probably save the poor tree lots of wear and tear. These are among the most travelled climbs in the Rincon/West Ridge area, and the tree will probably pull someday.
Nice climb in a area of awesome rock. I don't know if anyone would want beta for pro at the crux. If so, you can place a yellow Alien once you get your feet up and reach over the small roof.
Fantastic route! Good movement, good passive gear, interesting crux. It could use some chain anchors for the TR, since that part of Rincon is the easier craggin' section. If you go WAY right to the 5.8 anchors, it is awkward for multiple parties. Who wants to pull the trigger on that?
Rincon - Center Route & R
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