Wes Price, rebalancing to enter the next chimney s...
Description
The climbing on this pitch is surprisingly good. It can be used as an alternate start to Rewritten, Great Zot, Swanson Arete, Dirty Deed, or Icarus. It's a good way to get to the Red Ledge if the first pitches of Great Zot and Rewritten are busy.
Start at the deep chimney about 10' right of Great Zot. Climb the chimney, passing some fixed pins and an intermediate bolted rappel station, to a belay at a tree just below the Red Ledge (160 ft) or a tree at the base of Swanson Arete on the Red Ledge (205ft).
The upper pitches continue up the chimney/gully to the notch north of Lumpe Tower, but these are seldom climbed. If you do go to the top, descend back to Red Ledge by rappelling from trees; be careful of loose rock.
The first pitch of this route is commonly used to descend from the Red Ledge. There is a two-bolt anchor on the left wall of the chimney just below the Red Ledge (about 130' up), and a second two-bolt anchor about 70' up. Two rappels with a 50m or 60m rope get you down. It's possible to get down with one rappel with a 70m rope with a little bit of downclimbing at the end.
It's best to avoid climbing this route when parties are rappelling, unless you want to get brained by a tossed rope.
By Mark Nelson From: Coniferous, CO May 8, 2006 rating: 5.5
Agree w/ Ron in the route description. There is a variety of climbing offered on this (first long) pitch providing good practice in shifting balance as you stem. The finish chimney section (best part of the first pitch) offers a large nut placement then to a friendly foot ledge & fun chimney to bolts. I would offer that this is a hard technical mountaineering-type pitch. It is quite fun but generally underrated in relation of being a good climb because of its neighbors.
Difficult to climb this with a pack or camelback, this (first) pitch is fairly cleaned of loose rock, but be mindful that a rock will fall on everyone staging for the other climbs (& also where your belayer is standing). I generally get an early start to try and avoid any mishaps when climbing this feature.
Not a bad way to get to the Red Ledge but not that great either. There is loose rock, but it's pretty easy to avoid. The sketchiest section for me was avoiding the loose looking rocks precariously perched (and held up by who knows what) just above the lower rappel station. Not a recommended lead for someone leading at her limit. The gear is not abundant, but it's there when you need it.
A much better pitch than it's generally given credit for. As noted, more like a technical mountaineering pitch, and there's some real-by-god chimney climbing at the top that's thoughtful and fun. Also as noted, the gear is not plentiful, but I've never felt too badly run out. I think Rossiter's guide gives this a 5.5, but maybe a bit harder.
Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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