Quick Silver 

FA:  Tony Bubb, Chris Parks, & Peter Spindloe, 12/2003 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 70 feet Season:  Any Views: 145 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Apr 13, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Chris Parks as seen through the slot, top-down fol...

Description 

Quicksilver is a different finish and a completely new pitch above the first 3 pitches of Quicksand. The 5.9+ rating is an Offwidth rating and may seem hard if you are not used to OW climbing.
From the ledge previously above the first 3 pitches of Quicksand, below the death-rap-station, climb up to the right and towards a 4-6" crack though the roof at a right-facing dihedral/overhang. There is a Death block teetering here, but it can be easily avoided. It looks to be about ~ 4' x 3' and is perhaps 8 cubic feet (about 2000lbs). The point is, that it WILL KILL OR MAIM SOMEONE if you knock it off- so don't. Stem up past the flake and to the roof/crack. You can protect the roof at the base with a #3 Camalot or 3.5" piece in a narrow spot (solid gear) and then stem higher and get in a solid 3.5"-4" cam. Protect, then pull up and left to the corner and over the roof (5.9+). During this crux, a #4 Camalot is optional, but the last piece is at your knees anyway. Continue up on easy hand-to-fist cracks protecting with 3" gear, if you saved any (5.5) and up to a ledge and to the top of the ridge, now 20' right of the top of LJW. Belay after slinging a [huge] boulder, or walk the ridge to the "slot" above LJW and belay as per that climb.

Location 

A lone pitch high on the West ridge, approached via Ignominity, Quicksand, or Long John Wall.

Protection 

A standard Rack as for the approach pitches (like Quicksand) + a #4 Camalot and maybe a 3.5 if you brought it. The route would be moderately spicy without these pieces.