L to R R to L Alpha
Tower One is the obvious pointy summit of the upper Redgarden Wall. It is probably the only summit in Eldorado Canyon which can be precisely pinpointed with a single finger :) when on top. This section of Redgarden Wall will include routes on Tower One. This will be demarcated by a line connecting West Chimney to The Dirty Deed going all the way to Ruper including that terrain above the Lower Ramp.
To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here, for routes from Ruper to Super Slab/Doub-Griffith you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your preference. You can continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2. For routes on the west side of Tower One in the vicinity of Vertigo and left, you should take the left fork (see above) and continue around the base of the Pickpocket Wall and catch the Redgarden Trail in the gully between Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge. This is labeled as a climber's access trail. Continue up this trail. Go right at the fork for Kloof Alcove area, ascend railroad tie steps, a small ladder. For routes on Tower One's west face, you likely will go to the area below Yellow Spur's start and 3rd-4th class up a short bit of rock to a ledge system. From here, you will find your route moving left or right on this ledge. Finally, it is possible to ascend a route below the Lower Ramp to gain this same ledge.
Per dlm: watch out for rattlesnakes, especially near the stairs.
60 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Redgarden - Tower One
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redgarden - Tower One:
Icarus 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b R Trad, 3 pitches
Body Tremors 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Alice in Bucketland 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R Trad, 2 pitches
Ruper 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 6 pitches
The Yellow Spur 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 6 pitches
Italian Arete 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R Trad, 1 pitch
Grand Giraffe 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 5 pitches
Three Old Farts Young at Heart 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R Trad, 3 pitches, 230'
Art's Spar 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 4 pitches
Super Slab 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 4 pitches
Psychosis 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 210'
Superspar 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 4 pitches
Vertigo 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 4 pitches
Parting Shot 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, Sport
Doub-Griffith 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 3 pitches
Yellow Fellow 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Mellow Yellow 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13 Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Ignition 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Mellow Fellow 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, Grade III
Apple Strudel 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, Sport
Featured Route For Redgarden - Tower One
Mellow Yellow 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13 CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One
This climbs a series of dihedrals and roofs on the southwest face of Tower One.P1. At a northwestern point of the Upper Ramp, climb over a roof to a dihedral, 5.9, leading to a belay below the prominent apex roof. P2. Climb up and through the steep apex of the roof, 5.11d, to a slab belay above.P3. Climb over the next roof system, 5.11c,and up to the top of the dihedral and belay.P4. Climb up to the next large roof with a thin crack splitting it. Climb out left, 5.9, under the roof, and connect ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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