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Redgarden - Tower One

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alice in Bucketland T 
Apple Strudel T,S 
Art Of Slappiness, The S 
Art's Spar T 
Better Layton Never S 
Blueberry Boodle T 
Body Tremors T 
Chockstone Chimney T 
Consummation Nite T 
Daedalus T 
Deadpoint T 
Dirty Deed T 
Doub-Griffith T 
E.L.100 T 
Electric Aunt Jemima T 
Exhibit A T 
Exit Stage Left T 
Flashdance T 
Fresh Garbage T 
Grand Giraffe T 
Icarus T 
Ignition S 
Italian Arete T 
King Cobra, The T 
Magic Bus T 
Magic Carpet Ride S 
Magic Route T 
Mellow Fellow T 
Mellow Yellow T,S 
Memory Lapse T 
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 
Much Slater (left variation) T 
Neptune's Bible T 
Neurosis T 
One and a Half Hours of Power T 
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 
Parting Shot T,S 
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 
Pigeon Crack T 
Psycho Pigeon T 
Psychosis T 
Reaper T 
Rocky Raccoon T 
Roll Over Rover T 
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T,S 
Rover T 
Ruper T 
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 
Short Arm Inspection. T 
Smoke & Mirrors T 
Song of the Dodo T,TR 
South Face of Tower One T 
Super Slab T 
Superspar T 
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 
To RP or not to Be T 
Untouchables, The S 
Vertigo T 
West Arete (of T1), The T 
Without A Net T 
Yellow Fellow T 
Yellow Spur, The T 
Ytrid Deed, The T 

Redgarden - Tower One 


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Location: 39.93194, -105.28603 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 710,320
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Redgarden Wall, showing the major features and the...
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  • Description 

    Tower One is the obvious pointy summit of the upper Redgarden Wall. It is probably the only summit in Eldorado Canyon which can be precisely pinpointed with a single finger :) when on top. This section of Redgarden Wall will include routes on Tower One. This will be demarcated by a line connecting West Chimney to The Dirty Deed going all the way to Ruper including that terrain above the Lower Ramp.

    The routes in this section certainly rank with some of the longest and finest of Eldorado Canyon. There is more to choose for the moderate climber. Some of these lines may help your spirit soar. For many, these routes hold a special place in the climbers' hearts. One down side to this is that the most popular or famous may develop queues, so plan accordingly.

    Some of the best lines here include: the glorious Icarus, 5.6 s; the brilliant Ruper, 5.8 s; Alice in Bucketland, 5.8+ s; the ever-popular route, The Yellow Spur, 5.9 to 5.10b; Italian Arete, 5.9 s; Grand Giraffe, 5.10a; the airy Rosy Crucifixion, 5.10a s; Art's Spar, 5.10c; Superspar, 5.10c; Super Slab, 5.10d; Psychosis, 5.10d s; Vertigo, 5.11b; Doub-Griffith, 5.11c s; Ignition, 5.11d; Mellow Yellow, 5.11d s; Wild Kingdom, 5.12a; Apple Strudel, 5.12a/b s.

    One thing to consider here is that lines that face west here do not go into the sun until about 11am or 12pm. Then, for a short time, it may be difficult to distinguish features above you.

    It would be wise to plan your descents before you leave the ground since none are completely obvious. Many of the lines that go to the top can be descended with at least 4 methods. 1) You can rappel the Swanson Arete or Dirty Deed rappels with double ropes. 2) You can downscramble the East Slabs Descent (plan - to be fleshed out with its own separate description) low 4th class- note this is exposed, lengthy, and particularly slippery when wet. You may wind up a long way from your gear and comfortable shoes. Also, the last bit can be challenging in the spring with a wet slab finish or funky downclimb down a chimney. 3) you can rappel the Chockstone Chimney rappels which take you to the top of the Upper Ramp or Meadows. Here, you can rappel the Vertigo rappels (60m or 2 ropes) or carefully descend the Upper Meadows to the rappels below The Naked Edge. 4) You perform the lengthy traverse W or left off the top going to the top of Redgarden Wall around Hot Spur and into the 3rd class+ gully.


    Getting There 

    To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here, for routes from Ruper to Super Slab/Doub-Griffith you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your preference. You can continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2. For routes on the west side of Tower One in the vicinity of Vertigo and left, you should take the left fork (see above) and continue around the base of the Pickpocket Wall and catch the Redgarden Trail in the gully between Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge. This is labeled as a climber's access trail. Continue up this trail. Go right at the fork for Kloof Alcove area, ascend railroad tie steps, a small ladder. For routes on Tower One's west face, you likely will go to the area below Yellow Spur's start and 3rd-4th class up a short bit of rock to a ledge system. From here, you will find your route moving left or right on this ledge. Finally, it is possible to ascend a route below the Lower Ramp to gain this same ledge.


    Fauna 

    Per dlm: watch out for rattlesnakes, especially near the stairs.


    63 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',2]
    ['<=5.6',6],['5.7',1],['5.8',10],['5.9',7],['5.10',12],['5.11',19],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redgarden - Tower One:
    Icarus   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, 3 pitches   
    Alice in Bucketland   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Body Tremors   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   
    Ruper   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches   
    The Yellow Spur   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 6 pitches   
    Grand Giraffe   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches   
    Three Old Farts Young at Heart   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   
    Art's Spar   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches   
    Super Slab   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 4 pitches   
    Psychosis   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 210'   
    Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor)   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
    Vertigo   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches   
    Superspar   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches   
    Doub-Griffith   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches   
    Ignition   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Mellow Yellow   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   
    To RP or not to Be   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Mellow Fellow   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Grade III   
    Apple Strudel   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport   
    The Untouchables   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
    Browse More Classics in Redgarden - Tower One

    Featured Route For Redgarden - Tower One
    Phil Gruber pulling the 11d+ roof on Mellow Yellow

    Mellow Fellow 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One
    This is another linkup for the uninhibited. Mellow Fellow combines the exciting, strenuous Vertigo Die-rect roof, the classic Vertigo, and the complete Mellow Yellow to produce a stiff bit of Eldorado mayhem. Begin on the West Redgarden trail, a bit beyond the popular Mr. Natural. P1: Climb a clean, sparsely protected offset dihedral (5.9) to a belay just below the huge roof (2-bolt anchor). P2: Tackle the roof (crux of Vertigo Die-rect, 5.11d) after arranging th...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Local Information for Redgarden - Tower One
    Photos of Redgarden - Tower One Slideshow Add Photo
    Unknown climbers on the arete of Tower One.
    Unknown climbers on the arete of Tower One.
    Each rappel station marked here is bolted
    BETA PHOTO: Each rappel station marked here is bolted
    Lumpe Tower and Tower One from Rewritten.
    Lumpe Tower and Tower One from Rewritten.
    Upper Ramp rappel route.  From the base of Chockstone Chimney, hike up to the right side of the slab by a tree, then downclimb the slab to a ledge. Traverse left on the ledge to a bolted rappel anchor. <span class='mptextHighlight'>This anchor was installed on August 21, 2006 to replace the anchor on the wobbling tree.</span> Rappel 65' to a stance with bolts and chains. <br /> <br />A second 95' rappel takes you to Vertigo Ledge.  Follow Vertigo Ledge until it intersects the West Face trail.
    BETA PHOTO: Upper Ramp rappel route. From the base of Chockst...
    The new bolted rappel anchor at the top of the Upper Ramp. Installed 8/21/06. <br /> <br />Traverse in from climber's left to avoid using the tree to downclimb. <br /> <br />The rope pull is clean with little friction.  The rope only contacts the rock at the edge of the dropoff (where this photo was taken). <br /> <br />The old tree anchor is just to the right.
    BETA PHOTO: The new bolted rappel anchor at the top of the Upp...
    Redgarden.
    Redgarden.
    DC traversing the ridge from Yellow Spur to the descent rappels
    DC traversing the ridge from Yellow Spur to the de...
    The double eared rock is Vertigo's spectacular finish.
    BETA PHOTO: The double eared rock is Vertigo's spectacular fin...
    The South Face of Redgarden Wall as seen from the park road. The prominent dihedral left of center is the Rover dihedral. Photo by Tony B., 2007.
    The South Face of Redgarden Wall as seen from the ...
    Chockstone Chimney rappel route.  From the top of Upper Ruper, scramble uphill to a wide notch, then down the other side to two huge bolt hangers on the left wall of the chimney.  A 100' rappel with a 60m rope takes you to the Upper Ramp; watch the ends of the rope. <br /> <br />To descend from here, go around the right (N) side of a short slab and traverse left on a ledge to the rappel tree for the Upper Ramp (Vertigo) rappel route.  See the photo on the Redgarden Wall page for details. <br /> <br />The pocketed wall to the left is Body Tremors; around the corner to the right is Italian Arete.
    BETA PHOTO: Chockstone Chimney rappel route. From the top of ...
    Tower 1 from the trail across the canyon on the way up to Peanuts. Climbers on the Doub / Superslab arete.
    Tower 1 from the trail across the canyon on the wa...
    Vertigo rappel. Unknown climber.
    Vertigo rappel. Unknown climber.
    Comments on Redgarden - Tower One Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By ROC
    From: Englewood, CO
    Apr 5, 2006

    WARNING!!!

    The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable. I was up there last week in high winds and the entire tree was lifting up out of the ground with each gust. I was sitting on the rocks near the tree and was lifted off the ground each time the tree would move. I left a rap anchor that consisted of three equalized stoppers, but I'm afraid the new anchor will be treated like booty gear. The tree may be fine, but under the circumstances I was not willing to trust my life to, "it's probably okay".

    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 29, 2007

    ROC wrote:
    WARNING!!! The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable.

    A bolted rappel anchor was installed near this tree on 8/21/06, after approval by the Eldorado Fixed Hardware Review Committee. See Photo, Photo, Photo for details.

    By Sergio P
    From: Idaho Springs, CO
    Apr 7, 2008

    Vertigo Rap beta:

    Once on the upper ramp walk to Chockstone Chimney route. Walk about 15’ higher and begin looking over the edge for a small tree about 20’ below the rim. This sits between a small saddle of the top of the upper ramp and a large rock out cropping. Down climb to the tree. Looking at the wall look right about 15’ for the painted bolts and chain. 2 single rope raps gets you to the Yellow Spur ledge.

    By James Beissel
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 19, 2010

    High resolution panorama of Tower One (2,528 megapixels).
    (The viewer requires Adobe Flash.)

    www.jamesbeissel.com/gigapan/redgarden-tower-one.html

    The Vertigo Raps are visible in this panorama of Tower Two:

    www.jamesbeissel.com/gigapan/redgarden-tower-two.html