|Redgarden - Tower One
BETA PHOTO: The double eared rock is Vertigo's spectacular fin...
Tower One is the obvious pointy summit of the upper Redgarden Wall. It is probably the only summit in Eldorado Canyon which can be precisely pinpointed with a single finger :) when on top. This section of Redgarden Wall will include routes on Tower One. This will be demarcated by a line connecting West Chimney to The Dirty Deed going all the way to Ruper including that terrain above the Lower Ramp.
The routes in this section certainly rank with some of the longest and finest of Eldorado Canyon. There is more to choose for the moderate climber. Some of these lines may help your spirit soar. For many, these routes hold a special place in the climbers' hearts. One down side to this is that the most popular or famous may develop queues, so plan accordingly.
Some of the best lines here include: the glorious Icarus, 5.6 s; the brilliant Ruper, 5.8 s; Alice in Bucketland, 5.8+ s; the ever-popular route, The Yellow Spur, 5.9 to 5.10b; Italian Arete, 5.9 s; Grand Giraffe, 5.10a; the airy Rosy Crucifixion, 5.10a s; Art's Spar, 5.10c; Superspar, 5.10c; Super Slab, 5.10d; Psychosis, 5.10d s; Vertigo, 5.11b; Doub-Griffith, 5.11c s; Ignition, 5.11d; Mellow Yellow, 5.11d s; Wild Kingdom, 5.12a; Apple Strudel, 5.12a/b s.
One thing to consider here is that lines that face west here do not go into the sun until about 11am or 12pm. Then, for a short time, it may be difficult to distinguish features above you.
It would be wise to plan your descents before you leave the ground since none are completely obvious. Many of the lines that go to the top can be descended with at least 4 methods. 1) You can rappel the Swanson Arete or Dirty Deed rappels with double ropes. 2) You can downscramble the East Slabs Descent (plan - to be fleshed out with its own separate description) low 4th class- note this is exposed, lengthy, and particularly slippery when wet. You may wind up a long way from your gear and comfortable shoes. Also, the last bit can be challenging in the spring with a wet slab finish or funky downclimb down a chimney. 3) you can rappel the Chockstone Chimney rappels which take you to the top of the Upper Ramp or Meadows. Here, you can rappel the Vertigo rappels (60m or 2 ropes) or carefully descend the Upper Meadows to the rappels below The Naked Edge. 4) You perform the lengthy traverse W or left off the top going to the top of Redgarden Wall around Hot Spur and into the 3rd class+ gully.
To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here, for routes from Ruper to Super Slab/Doub-Griffith you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your preference. You can continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2. For routes on the west side of Tower One in the vicinity of Vertigo and left, you should take the left fork (see above) and continue around the base of the Pickpocket Wall and catch the Redgarden Trail in the gully between Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge. This is labeled as a climber's access trail. Continue up this trail. Go right at the fork for Kloof Alcove area, ascend railroad tie steps, a small ladder. For routes on Tower One's west face, you likely will go to the area below Yellow Spur's start and 3rd-4th class up a short bit of rock to a ledge system. From here, you will find your route moving left or right on this ledge. Finally, it is possible to ascend a route below the Lower Ramp to gain this same ledge.
Browse More Classics in Redgarden - Tower One
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redgarden - Tower One:
5.8+ Trad, 6 pitches
5.10d PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 210 feet, Grade II
5.11d PG13 Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III
Featured Route For Redgarden - Tower One
5.10d PG13 CO
: Eldorado Canyon SP
: ... : Redgarden - Tower One
Psychosis is on the W/SW face of Redgarden Wall, and thus it gets morning shade and afternoon sun. The route begins from the same ledge as The Yellow Spur and Vertigo, and is more or less half way between the direct starts of these two routes.Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. The dihedral just above the ladder on the wall, behind the boulder, is Schizophrenia.Schizophrenia is a 5.8** approa...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
BETA PHOTO: The new bolted rappel anchor at the top of the Upp...
BETA PHOTO: Upper Ramp rappel route. From the base of Chockst...
BETA PHOTO: Chockstone Chimney rappel route. From the top of ...
BETA PHOTO: Redgarden Wall, showing the major features and the...
DC traversing the ridge from Yellow Spur to the de...
BETA PHOTO: Each rappel station marked here is bolted
Vertigo rappel. Unknown climber.
The South Face of Redgarden Wall as seen from the ...
Unknown climbers on the arete of Tower One.
Tower 1 from the trail across the canyon on the wa...
Lumpe Tower and Tower One from Rewritten.
|Comments on Redgarden - Tower One
From: Englewood, CO
Apr 5, 2006
The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable. I was up there last week in high winds and the entire tree was lifting up out of the ground with each gust. I was sitting on the rocks near the tree and was lifted off the ground each time the tree would move. I left a rap anchor that consisted of three equalized stoppers, but I'm afraid the new anchor will be treated like booty gear. The tree may be fine, but under the circumstances I was not willing to trust my life to, "it's probably okay".
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 29, 2007
WARNING!!! The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable.
A bolted rappel anchor was installed near this tree on 8/21/06, after approval by the Eldorado Fixed Hardware Review Committee. See Photo, Photo, Photo for details.
|By Sergio P|
From: Idaho Springs, CO
Apr 7, 2008
Vertigo Rap beta:
Once on the upper ramp walk to Chockstone Chimney route. Walk about 15’ higher and begin looking over the edge for a small tree about 20’ below the rim. This sits between a small saddle of the top of the upper ramp and a large rock out cropping. Down climb to the tree. Looking at the wall look right about 15’ for the painted bolts and chain. 2 single rope raps gets you to the Yellow Spur ledge.