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The Bastille - W Face

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Blind Faith 
Breakfast in Bed 
Chance of Rain 
Cream 
Hair City 
Implied Consent 
Let Them Eat Cake 
Neon Lights 
New Chautauqua 
Out to Lunge 
Rain 
Serengeti Spaghetti 
Stem Gem 
Sunset Boulevard 
Voodoo 
West Arete 
West Buttress 
West Face [Bastille] 
West Side aka West Chimney 
Your Mother 


The Bastille - W Face

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Elevation: 5,500 feet
Latitude: 39.9304  Longitude: -105.2830 
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BETA PHOTO: The north and west faces of the Bastille.

5. Werk...



Description 

The Bastille is a cornerstone of climbing in Eldorado Canyon State Park. According to P. Ament in High Over Boulder this was once called Chimney Rock and may have been named The Bastille by Stan Shepard in 1957. This is the section for the W Face. There is probably little for the lower end difficulty climber nor the high end climber here. The section of the crag provides a wonderful afternoon exposure for the cooler months. Topping out provides a wonderous view of this spirit-elevating canyon.

The legendary, Jim Erickson, elevated himself to the challenge of an onsight, solo, first ascent of Blind Faith on the W face. Today, this remains a crag that holds a special place in the hearts of climbers who have progressed to climb some of the great walls and peaks of the world.

This crag has been a proving grounds for some of Colorado's finest including: Layton Kor, Larry Dalke, Pat Ament, Bob Culp, Stan Shepard, Jim Erickson, Art Higbee, Duncan Ferguson, Kevin Donald, Rob Candelaria, Roger Briggs, David Breashears, Derek Hersey, Ed Webster, Colin Lantz, Chris Archer, among others.

Some of the better routes here include: West Chimney, 5.7; Hair City, 5.9 s; West Buttress, 5.9++; Blind Faith, 5.10a; Rain, 5.10d s; Northwest Corner (see N Face), 5.11a s; Sunset Boulevard, 5.11b/c; & Your Mother, 5.12d.

Note, there is significant amounts of loose rock & flexing flakes on this face.

Descents off the top traverse along an exposed-at-times break/ramp near the top to the N side of the rock and gain a 3rd class ramp down to the Fowler Trail. From here, descend the West Face hiking trail (3rd class near the bottom) back down to the base. A few of the routes have rappel descents, but they are the minority.

Come and climb here, but realize that many share your passion for the experiences found on this stone.


Getting There 

Once you enter Eldorado Canyon State Park, you will hopefully find parking within 200 yards in one of two areas. Park. Walk up the road to the obvious bridge across South Boulder Creek. Look up and left. This is The Bastille. The west face is accessed off a 3rd class trail just around the corner and up the steep slope. Be careful in wet conditions, with little ones and, please, no dogs here.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Bastille - W Face:
Breakfast in Bed   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch   
West Arete   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 130 feet, Grade II   
Out to Lunge   5.9 R     Trad, 1 pitch   
West Buttress   5.9+     Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II   
Hair City   5.9+ R     Trad, 3 pitches, 310 feet   
Blind Faith   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II   
Rain   5.10d R     Trad   
Neon Lights   5.11a R     Trad, 2 pitches   
West Face [Bastille]   5.11a     Trad, 2 pitches, 270 feet   
Sunset Boulevard   5.11b     Sport   
Your Mother   5.12d     Sport   
Browse More Classics in The Bastille - W Face

Featured Route For The Bastille - W Face
Brian on crux of 1st pitch with unknown climber just above the crux of the 2nd pitch

Blind Faith 5.10a  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - W Face
This exquisite crack can be found in the middle of the West Face of the Bastille. Considering that the first ascent was done free solo by Jim Erickson in 1972, the name seems to have some true meaning.The route is not hard to recognize, it is a hand-sized crack that runs diagonally up and right for about 100 feet. Start P1 by jamming up an easy crack to some more technical moves in the middle of the pitch. Eventually move past a short chimney an...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of The Bastille - W Face Slideshow Add Photo
A soloist on a mild fall evening.

A soloist on a mild fall evening.

Relaxing on the trail

Relaxing on the trail

West routes

BETA PHOTO: West routes